Fermentation Problems Explained: Causes, Fixes & When to Throw It Away

Fermentation Problems Explained: Causes, Fixes & When to Throw It Away

For beginners, fermentation might seem intimidating. What if it goes wrong and you accidentally poison somebody? Fortunately, vegetable fermentation is far safer than many beginners imagine. You can learn more about that in my article about fermentation safety.

First of all, serious illness from a properly prepared vegetable ferment is extremely uncommon, as there are some unmistakable signs of spoilage. Some occurrences, on the other hand, are quite normal. This guide will help you identify the most common fermentation problems and determine whether your ferment is perfectly safe, needs a simple adjustment, or should be discarded.

Before we dive into troubleshooting, it’s worth noting that fermentation is not the same as pickling. Fermentation relies on beneficial microorganisms to preserve food, while pickling uses vinegar. If you’re unsure about the difference, read my guide on fermentation vs. pickling first.

Quick overview

✔ Cloudy brine → Normal

✔ White sediment → Normal

✔ Kahm yeast → Usually harmless

⚠ Mould → Throw away

⚠ Rotten smell → Throw away

✔ Overflowing brine → Normal

✔ Bubbles → Normal

Why Fermentation Goes Wrong

Most fermentation problems can be traced back to one of four causes:

  • Too much oxygen
  • Incorrect salt concentration
  • Temperatures that are too high or too low
  • Poor-quality vegetables

Understanding these four factors will help you prevent most fermentation issues before they start.

Throw it away if…

❌ Fuzzy mould

❌ Rotten smell

❌ Pink/black/green mould

❌ Slimy vegetables with unpleasant smell

What Healthy Fermentation Looks Like

Many beginners mistake normal fermentation for failure. But many of the signs that may irritate us are actually normal occurrences in a healthy ferment.

Signs of a healthy ferment

  • Bubbles: Lactic acid bacteria consume natural sugars in the vegetables and produce (amongst others) carbon dioxide, which shows as bubbles
  • Cloudy brine: tiny traces of microorganisms make the brine cloudy
  • Slight sour smell: as the name “lacto-acid fermentation” indicates, acid is produced, which makes the ferment smell sour
  • Colour changes: during the process, vegetables may change their colour; an example is these fermented radishes that turn from a bright magenta to a pastel pink
  • Sediment at the bottom: traces in the brine can settle at the bottom
  • Floating spices: spices are lighter than brine and sometimes get past the weight on top and float around
Usually normal

✔ Bubbles

✔ Cloudy brine

✔ Sour smell

✔ White sediment

Quick Fermentation Troubleshooting Guide

ProblemSafe?What to do
Kahm yeast✔ Usually safeRemove surface layer
Mould❌ NoDiscard ferment
Cloudy brine✔ NormalNo action needed
Floating vegetables⚠ Fix itRe-submerge
Mushy vegetables✔ Usually safeImprove temperature/salt
No bubble✔ Often normalCheck smell and taste
Overflowing brine✔ NormalUse tray
Too salty✔ SafeRinse before eating

 

New to fermentation? Download my free Fermentation Starter Checklist and learn the simple steps that prevent most fermentation problems before they happen.

 

You should know that fermentation is remarkably forgiving, and most problems we may encounter in fermentation look scarier than they actually are. White films, bubbles, strange smells, and cloudy brine, for example, are normal signs of a fermentation going right.

When I started fermenting, I worried every time the brine turned cloudy or a few spices floated to the surface. Over time, I learned that many of the things that look alarming are actually signs that fermentation is working exactly as it should.

There are, however, a few indicators that our ferment is spoiled. Knowing the difference between harmless changes and genuine spoilage is key.

So let’s have a closer look at what could make you wonder.

White Film on Top of the Brine

Sometimes, a very thin white, cloudy film can form on a ferment’s brine surface. When you try to remove it, it breaks into tiny fragments that are difficult to get onto a spoon.

This film is most likely Kahm yeast – and it’s harmless.

What is Kahm Yeast?

Kahm yeast is a layer of wild yeasts that forms on lacto-fermented goods. It always appears on the surface; that is exactly where the ferment has contact with oxygen. Its typical appearance is flat and sometimes slightly wrinkled, but it never shows a furry structure. And that’s the great difference between Kahm yeast and mould.

Important: Kahm yeast is not mould. It occurs when oxygen comes into contact with the ferment.

Reasons for Kahm Yeast in Fermentation

Kahm yeast is not an accidental occurrence but the result of certain conditions that have gone out of balance:

  • Oxygen: Fermentation works best in an anaerobic environment, that is, without oxygen. When the vegetables are not fully submerged under the brine, there’ll be an area on the surface where wild yeasts can grow.
  • Salt: A common reason for Kahm yeast is too little salt. Salt is not only important for the taste, but it also controls which microorganisms can grow. When you use too little salt, unwanted yeasts get a head start.
  • Floating vegetables: All vegetables or parts of them that are above the brine surface come in contact with oxygen, and that’s where Kahm yeast grows. To prevent that, we use weights in fermentation. Find more information about weights in my article about fermentation equipment.
  • Temperature: When it’s too warm, fermentation processes work faster – unfortunately also the ones we don’t want. Kahm yeast grows fast in temperatures above 25 °C (77 °F). The ideal temperature range for fermentation lies between 18 and 22 °C (65 – 72 °F).
  • Hygiene: Although you needn’t sterilise the jars and lids you use for fermentation, they shouldn’t be dirty either. Wash all your equipment – and your hands! – well with warm water before you start.

Is Kahm Yeast dangerous?

The short answer is: No. In most cases, Kahm yeast is harmless. But it can affect the ferment’s taste and make it slightly musty. Most importantly, it’s a sign that there’s oxygen in the ferment and that’s where mould can grow.

When you detect Kahm yeast on your ferment, there’s no need to discard the whole jar. Carefully remove the yeast from the surface with a spoon, then wipe the jar and the fermentation weight clean.

Afterwards, smell the ferment: when it smells fresh and slightly sour, everything’s ok. If the smell is unpleasant or “weird”, discard it.

White Sediment at the Bottom of the Jar

Often, there’s a white sediment forming at the bottom of the jar, especially some time after the initial fermentation process has ended. This sediment is completely normal.

During fermentation, dead lactic acid bacteria and vegetable particles can settle at the bottom of the jar. This white sediment is harmless and a normal sign of fermentation.

When Should You Worry?

If the sediment becomes fuzzy, colourful, or is accompanied by a rotten smell, discard the ferment.

Vegetables Floating Above the Brine

All vegetables, herbs and spices must at all times be submerged in the brine. Sometimes, however, parts of them may pop up and float above the brine.

This is a problem, because exposure to oxygen increases the risk of Kahm yeast and mould.

Why It Happens

  • Carbon dioxide production: in lacto-fermentation, gases like carbon dioxide form, which is why ferments bubble for a few days. These bubbles can push the vegetables upwards and sometimes above the brine.
  • Trapped air pockets: When the vegetables are not pressed tightly into the jar, air pockets may remain where the brine won’t get in.

Solutions

  • Always use fermentation weights to keep the vegetables under the brine.
  • Gently press the vegetables under the brine, keep them down with a weight and, if necessary, top the jar up with salt water.
  • Check your jars daily during fermentation. That way, you can spot air pockets or floating vegetables early on and act accordingly.

Mould Growing on the Surface

Contrary to Kahm yeast, mouldy ferments must always be discarded.

How Mould Looks Different

While Kahm yeast is flat, even and like a white film on the surface, mould grows in sections. It’s often coloured – either green, black, blue, or even pink – and, most importantly, it has a fuzzy, hairy appearance.

Why Mould Develops

The reasons for mould growth on a ferment are similar to those of Kahm yeast:

  • Oxygen: Mould needs oxygen to grow. So, when there’s oxygen in the ferment, mould can develop.
  • Salt: Too little salt cannot keep harmful bacteria or fungi, like mould, at bay.
  • Floating vegetables: All vegetables or parts of them that are above the brine surface come in contact with oxygen, creating a perfect environment for mould. Use fermentation weights to keep everything under the brine.
  • Overripe or defective vegetables: they may already contain mould spores that grow further in the ferment.
  • Hygiene: Wash all your equipment – and your hands! – well with warm water before you start.

Is Mould Dangerous?

Yes, it is, and for that reason, you must discard ferments that have become mouldy.

My Ferment Smells Bad

When you’re new to fermentation, the right smell may be unknown to you. So let me tell you what good fermentation smells like:

The contents of a jar of lacto-fermented vegetables should smell sour, tangy and a little bit yeasty.

When, instead, you get smells like rotten meat, putrid, or like sewer or even vomit, that’s a clear warning sign! Always discard ferments that smell bad.

Why it happens

  • Salt: The most likely cause for a bad-smelling ferment is contamination with harmful bacteria, and that’s almost always due to an improper salt ratio.
  • Temperature: When temperatures are too high, harmful bacteria may grow faster than the beneficial ones.

Solutions

  • Always stick to the required amount of salt, which should be at least 2, better 3 – 5 % of the weight of the vegetables.
  • Keep an eye on the temperature: the ideal fermentation temperature range is between 18 and 22 °C (65 – 72 °F).

Soft or Mushy Vegetables

Usually, fermented vegetables stay crunchy. Yet, sometimes they may go soft and mushy. I’ll tell you why.

Why it happens

  • Temperature: When temperatures are too high (above 25 °C/77°F), the vegetables can become softer
  • Time: With time, ferments become softer or mushy, even though they have been stored in a cool place, where fermentation slows down but never really stops completely.
  • Salt: As with the other problems, the correct amount of salt can prevent this problem, as well.
  • Naturally softer vegetables: cabbage, carrots, and radishes are crunchy, but vegetables like pumpkin or zucchini are naturally a lot softer and thus can become mushy during fermentation.

How to Prevent It

  • Always stick to the required amount of salt, which should be at least 2, better 3 – 5 % of the weight of the vegetables.
  • Keep an eye on the temperature: the ideal fermentation temperature range is between 18 and 22 °C (65 – 72 °F).
  • Use fresh vegetables, at best directly after harvesting.

The Ferment Is Not Bubbling

A sure sign of a successful fermentation start is the formation of bubbles, but what if there’s no sign of them?

Why it happens

  • Temperature: While temperatures above 25 °C / 77 °F increase the risk of mould or Kahm yeast, temperatures below 18 °C / 64 °F can slow down the fermentation process or take longer for it to start.
  • Slow starter culture: if you use a starter culture like brine from an earlier ferment, it may contain only a small amount of active microbes. It’ll take them some time to reproduce and do their work.
  • Fermentation already completed: bubbles only form at the beginning of the process. When the main work is done, they’ll disappear – a sure sign to put the jars in a cool place.
  • Small batch size: the larger the container, the more vegetables you use and the more microbes are in the ferment. In reverse, that means the smaller the batch, the fewer microbes you have.

How to Tell if It’s Still Working

Before you give up, look out for

  • Aroma changes: smell the ferment and look for all the signs I described earlier.
  • Brine cloudiness: it’s a sure sign of an active fermentation when the brine gets cloudy.
  • Taste changes: when the ferment tastes sour, tangy and slightly yeasty, it has been fermented.

Brine Overflowing From the Jar

Overflowing brine is actually a clear sign of active fermentation!

Why It Happens

Lactic acid bacteria convert vegetable sugars into lactic acid and carbon dioxide. This gas forms the bubbles and develops a certain pressure within the jar, which can press the brine out of the jar.

What To Do

  • Always place the jars on a tray where the brine collects and can be removed later.
  • Leave adequate headspace: leave at least 2 cm (about 1 inch) between brine surface and lid so that there’s room for expansion.

Brine Level Has Dropped

When brine flows out of the jar, it sometimes occurs that there’s too little left in the jar. Another cause for a dropped brine level is evaporation or the shrinkage of vegetables due to water loss.

Solutions

If that happens, you can simply add more brine. Just mix 20g salt per 1 litre of water, mix it thoroughly until the salt has dissolved, and top the jar up.

My Ferment Is Too Salty

While a certain salty taste is normal, too salty is too much.

Why It Happens

  • Measuring by volume: always weigh the vegetables and calculate the amount of salt necessary. This is way more accurate than measuring by volume.
  • Salt: the salt concentration should be between 2 and 5 %.

But what to do when the ferment is too salty?

Solutions

  • Rinse before eating: take out the portion you want to eat and put it into a bowl with clear water. Rinse it and repeat this process until all the salt has been washed out. Let it drain in a sieve (plastic or acid-proof metal) for 15 minutes and taste it.
  • Mix with fresh vegetables
  • Use it in cooked dishes, for example with extra sauce to dilute the salt.

My Ferment Isn’t Sour Enough

Imagine opening a jar of homemade sauerkraut, only to discover that it’s just kraut without the sour.

Why it happens

  • Fermentation time: this is the most common reason for ferments that are not sour enough. Fermentation and the development of lactic acid takes its time.
  • Cool temperatures slow down the fermentation process, and it takes longer to create that sour taste.

Solution

That’s easy: simply ferment the vegetables longer. Fermentation cannot be rushed, and patience is the key.

When Should You Throw a Ferment Away?

More often than not, a ferment is perfectly safe to eat. There are, however, a few warning signs that indicate a ferment should be discarded.

Discard it if you seeUsually safe
❌ Fuzzy mould✔ Cloudy brine
❌ Pink mould✔ Bubbles
❌ Black mould✔ White sediment
❌ Orange mould✔ Kahm yeast
❌ Rotten smell

 

You can download my fermentation starter checklist, a free printable with all the ingredients for a successful fermentation at home.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About Fermentation Problems

Can I scrape mould off fermented vegetables?

No. If mould is present, discard the entire ferment.

Is Kahm yeast dangerous?

No. Kahm yeast is usually harmless but may affect flavour.

Why is my brine cloudy?

Cloudy brine is typically a sign of active fermentation.

Why isn’t my ferment bubbling?

Temperature, batch size, or fermentation stage may be responsible.

Can fermented vegetables be too salty?

Yes, but they can often be rinsed before eating.

Can I eat vegetables that floated above the brine?

If they were only briefly exposed and show no signs of mould, they are usually safe. Re-submerge them as soon as possible.

Is white sediment mould?

No. White sediment at the bottom of the jar is usually dead lactic acid bacteria and is perfectly normal.

Fermentation problems can happen – know how to deal with them.

Every experienced fermenter has looked nervously into a jar at some point. The good news is that most fermentation “problems” aren’t really problems at all. Once you understand what your ferment is telling you, you’ll spend less time worrying—and more time enjoying the results.

If you’re ready to put these principles into practice, try my beginner-friendly recipes for fermented radishes, fermented cucumbers, or homemade sauerkraut. The more you ferment, the more confidence you’ll gain.

Trust your senses, follow a few key fermentation principles, and you’ll soon discover that fermentation is far less intimidating than it first appears.

Wondering whether fermentation is safe in general?
Read my complete guide to fermentation safety first.

Ready to Try Fermentation?

How to make a vegetable patch – A beginners’s guide

How to make a vegetable patch – A beginners’s guide

Are you dreaming of starting a vegetable garden and harvesting fresh produce:? A small vegetable patch is the first step to a whole new quality of life: the best food, fresh air and a contribution to a “greener” world. Let’s take this fantastic step together so that you can make your dream come true!

How to make a vegetable patch

You want to make a vegetable patch, maybe even a whole vegetable garden? You want to dig into the soil with your hands, and inhale this wonderful earthy scent? And you want to harvest vegetables that are fresher and tastier than anything you can buy in a shop?

That’s wonderful!

In this article, I show you step by step how you can create low-maintenance and fertile vegetable patches without tilling, and superfast, too. With a few tricks, it’ll not only be fertile from the beginning but it’ll also stay weed-free.

Let’s dive in.

Why no digging when creating a vegetable patch?

Admit it: when you think about creating a vegetable patch, you first think about digging up the earth, right? I know it was common in most gardens for a long time. Today, however, science tells us that it’s probably better for our soil to not dig at all. Which is great for both, the microorganisms and our backs.

Did you know that there are more microorganisms in a handful of garden soil than human beings on the earth? These tiny invisible helpers are immensely important for fertile soil.

Imagine an earthworm, for example, who usually looks for food at the surface of the earth but has to go hungry if you dig up the soil. He suddenly finds himself out there while his food is three floors below. That’s a catastrophe – not only for the earthworm without any sunscreen but also for soil fertility.

The trick is now to NOT disturb the microorganisms but to work with them from the very beginning. That’s why we create our vegetable patches without digging.

Start a vegetable patch in 5 steps

Let’s create a low-maintenance and high-yield vegetable patch!

Step 1: Prepare the ground

The first step is easy! The only thing you have to do is wait until the grass is long. When the grass is too short it cannot be bent. Then the pointy tips can easily penetrate the cardboard that we put onto the lawn. The cardboard suffocates long bent grass and it dies.

So, the first step in creating a vegetable patch: let the grass grow under your feet 😊!

Long grass

Step 2: Dig in a lawn edging border

When making a vegetable patch, dig in a lawn edging border along the outer edge of your patch. Weeds and grass must stay outside. With a lawn edging border you make sure that no uninvited guests grow into the patches and reconquer them. To kill to birds with one stone, you can use a metal snail barrier which not only keeps the weeds but also the snails out. I have chosen to use that, as my garden is on a meadow.

Dig a v-shaped hole into the ground and put in the border so that about five centimeters are showing. I prefer this lawn edging border that also works as a slug barrier. It’s made of metal which is more durable than plastic edges that release microplastic into the garden when decomposing.

My patches are all 1,2 m broad because I can work them without contorting. I can reach the middle of the patch from every side without balancing or doing acrobatics.

Step 3: create bed borders (optional)

The lawn edging border is not very appealing and you sometimes may even stumble over them. For that reason, you may conceal it a bit. How about a bed border made from wooden trunks? Stabilize them with small stakes so that they are firmly in place and cannot roll away.

Other possibilities may be stones, boards, tiles, or deadwood. Many things are possible. Just make sure that the bed borders are not too high and throw a shade onto your vegetables.

Patch border

Step 4: Cardboard, gimme cardboard!

Now you get blank cardboard. It’s important to remove all tapes and staples so they do not get into the soil. Put the cardboard within the bed borders, overlapping at least 10 centimetres.

If you don’t have enough cardboard: ask your local bike shop. They have large cardboard transport boxes from the bikes which are great for a vegetable patch. They are huge and usually without print.

How to make a vegetable patch: Cardboards

If you don’t want to use cardboard, anti-weed fabrics made of natural fibers that break down without any remnants are a good alternative.

Another possibility is to replace the cardboard with a layer of mulch. Apply 10 cm lawn cuttings or leaves and let it dry thoroughly. Then, distribute compost evenly on it.

Step 5: Spreading compost

Attention, ladies and gentlemen: here comes our star guest: his Royal Highness the Compost honors us with his entry into the garden!

That means you spread a 10 – 15 cm thick layer of mature compost on your beds

If you don’t have enough mature compost (which is likely when you want to start a vegetable garden), ask your local composting plant if you can buy some. It’s usually cheaper than a garden centre. In any case, make sure that the compost is made of organic material. Otherwise, it may contain lots of plastic – and we don’t want that in your vegetable garden!

I recommend using compost from green cuttings.

Bonus: Garden paths

Congrats: you now know everything about how to make vegetable patches. But also keep in mind that you may need garden paths, especially when you are creating several patches. You may separate them with woodchip paths. Plan the paths about 40 cm wide so that you can pass through with a wheelbarrow. Just spread the woodchips onto the cardboard. That way you can create easy-care garden paths in no time.

The patch is ready – what now?

The patch is ready, now it’s time for planting and/or sowing. You can plant or sow directly into the compost beds. The cardboard will decompose very soon so that the plant roots can grow through it without difficulty.

And earthworms, by the way, love soggy cardboard. Don’t worry: they’ll find their way to the surface.

You see: creating a vegetable patch is totally easy. The only thing you have to do is go outside and start! With these tips and tricks, you’ll create a vegetable garden in no time 😊

 

 

 

How to make a planting plan for your vegetable garden

How to make a planting plan for your vegetable garden

Mixed cultivation, crop rotation, pre-, main and post-crops… it’s difficult for a beginner to understand how to make a planting plan for your vegetable garden. Where do I plant, what and when can I harvest are some questions that may feel overwhelming at the beginning.

Yet, it’s high time to deal with them and create a planting plan for the upcoming gardening season. It’s not as complicated as it may seem at first. Just follow the steps and you’ll create a planting plan in no time.

Ready to start? Let’s go!

Plan your vegetable garden

First, you draw a layout of your garden. If you have patches already draw them. If you start creating a vegetable garden from scratch, plan patches with a width of 1,20 metres. That way, you can reach every part of the patch without contorting.

If you want to add several patches, they should optimally be 1,20 metres long, but you can make them up to 1,8 metres. Also, add paths between the patches so that you can reach every part of them.

Determine the location

Before creating a vegetable garden, it’s important to determine the best location. Important things to consider are

  • Distance to the house
  • Sun
  • Good soil
  • Plain or slightly south-bend area
  • Wind-break

Maybe you won’t find the ideal place for your vegetable garden, but that’s okay! Even if you had only a shadowy backyard for your vegetables, there’d still be some plants that grow well in the shade. Just consider this when planning your garden and you’ll still enjoy planting your veggies. Take what you have and make the best of it.

Once you’ve determined where your vegetable garden shall be, you can start making patches. It’s not too late to make new vegetable patches and plant them immediately. If you want to know how to start vegetable patches from scratch, check out this post.

Have you drawn the patches into your layout? Great, let’s move on.

What to plant

That’s easy: what you like. If you are a beginner, start with plants that are easy to grow. Herbs, lettuce, radishes, chard, beans, summer squash, beets, garlic and leek usually don’t make any problems and produce a good harvest.

What vegetables do you want to grow?

Make a list of the vegetables you want to plant and how many you want.

Crop rotation

Different vegetables have different needs regarding soil and fertilization. There are plants with high nutrient demands like tomatoes and cabbage, medium nutrient demands like beets and low nutrient demands like peas and beans.

If you want to plant vegetables with high nutrient demands, it’s important to prepare the soil well, use compost and fertilize the plants. In the second year, you can plant vegetables with medium nutrient demand on this patch. They need less nutrients and profit from the fertilizer of the first year. In the third year, you plant veggies with low nutrient demand.

That said, divide your garden into three sections: one for plants with high, one for medium and one for low nutrient demands. Rotate these vegetables every year and use the nutrients optimally. Another benefit of crop rotation is that you minimize the danger of diseases. Would you plant the same vegetables at the same place year after year, the soil would exhaust, making it easier for pests and diseases to thrive.

So, take your list of vegetables you want to plant and categorize them into plants with high, medium and low nutrient demands. Here’s a list of vegetables and their category. Then determine which plants to grow where in your garden and prepare the soil for the high nutrient-demanding ones.

Mixed cultivation

Mixed cultivation

Now that you know what plants to grow in which part of your garden, you have to determine which plants to pair. This is a bit like putting together a work team and – like in real life – some team members (or plants in that case) work great together and others loathe each other. To bring them together in an optimal way is called mixed cultivation and it’s a great way to hold pests and diseases at bay. Typical examples are carrots and onions: the carrot releases a scent that repels the leek fly and the onions release a scent that repels the carrot fly. Here’s a list of great mixed cultivation partners.

Note down great partners and disaster pairs, decide where to grow them and write them down in your garden plan.

The best is yet to come

Most vegetables don’t need the whole season to grow. Tomatoes for example are not planted before mid-May, that’s enough time to cultivate radishes and lettuce before. Almost any main crop, i.e. a vegetable group that occupies the patch for a long period, leaves time for a pre- or post-crop. Examples of main crops are tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and corn. By using the patches before and/or after the main crop for fast-growing vegetables you can harvest twice or even three times!

That’s why you should combine the different main crops with fast-growing pre and post-crops like radishes, spinach, lettuce and kohlrabi. Usually, it’s indicated on the seed bags when to sow which veggies. Using this information you can make a planting plan for the whole year and scale your harvest.

Note down in your plan how long the crops will take until they can be harvested and determine which places to use for pre and/or post-crops. It’s a bit like playing Tetris :-).

Grab your planting plan for your vegetable garden

Taking every of the above aspects into consideration when making a planting plan can lead to overwhelm. I, too, need several attempts until my plan is sound. I’m up to drafting out a planting plan for you, so stay tuned and come back!

 

 

 

 

 

Recipe spinach lemon lasagna

Recipe spinach lemon lasagna

I love lasagna! Not only the classic one (which is adorable!) but lasagna in every variety. It’s such a great dish to experiment with different vegetables, herbs, spices, sauces and flavours. Take the combination of spinach and lemon for example: they are a dream couple of their own but add a great bechamel sauce, cheese and herbs and layer all that with lasagna sheets. The result is a creamy and savoury main course with well-balanced tartness. You’ll love it as much as I do! Here’s the recipe of a tasty spinach lemon lasagna:

Spinach lemon lasagna

Admittedly, preparation time is a bit longer as you’ll have to blanch the spinach and mix it with different ingredients to make one part of the filling. Additionally, you’ll need a classic bechamel sauce which also needs some time to make. However, the wonderful taste of this spinach lemon lasagna rewards you for all the effort.

Ingredients

lasagna sheets
1/2 bunch of basil
1 quarter slice fermented lemon
4 tbsp
2 spring onions
300 g fresh spinach
400 g ricotta
salt
pepper
30 g butter
30 g flour
freshly grated nutmeg
300 ml vegetable broth
300 ml milk
200 g grated cheese (parmigiano, gouda or similar)

Instructions

For the spinach-ricotta filling

1. Bring a pot of water to the boil. In the meantime, wash the spinach and blanch it for one minute in the boiling water. Drain in a sieve and rinse with cold water.
Wash the spring onions and slice them.

For the spinach lemon lasagna, chop the spring onions

2. Roughly chop the basil and the lemon and puree it in a food processor together with 3 tbsp olive oil.

3. In a bowl, mix the spinach and onions with ricotta and the basil-lemon puree. Add salt and pepper to taste but be careful with the salt as the lemons are salty already.

For the bechamel sauce

4. Melt the butter and slowly bend in the flour. Slowly add the vegetable broth while constantly stirring. Make sure that no lumps form! Add the vegetable broth and let it come back to the boil briefly. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste, add half of the grated cheese and stir until it’s melted.

bechamel sauce

Assemble the lasagna

5. Preheat the oven to 180 °C (fan oven: 160 °C). Grease an oven dish and layer lasagna sheets, spinach-ricotta mix and bechamel sauce in that order until the mix and the sauce are used up. The last layer is sauce. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top of the dish and bake it in the oven for 30 – 40 minutes.

Spinach lemon lasagna on a plate