Did you know that over 67% of households started gardening during recent years? As you’ve found this article, I gather you’re a newbie, too, and you’re finally ready to start growing your own food. That’s wonderful! And don’t you let yourself become anxious that you might kill your plants. I’ve got you covered: because there are some vegetables that are practically begging to grow, no matter how brown your thumb might be. 2025 is your year to leave all doubts behind and finally develop that green thumb. Whether you have a spacious backyard or just a few containers on your patio or balcony, these 11 easy vegetables for beginners are practically guaranteed to thrive with minimal gardening experience. From fast-growing radishes to foolproof tomatoes, I’ll show you exactly what to plant for a successful first harvest. Let’s dig in! (Pun absolutely intended 😉)
What are “beginner-friendly” vegetables?
What makes a vegetable easy for beginners?
One criterion, for example is that they are robust against diseases and have a high germination capacity (that means, seeds grow easily) .
Furthermore, they must be easy in their demands on the soil, temperature and watering. Even in conditions that are not ideal, they can grow successfully. For that reason, maintenance requirements are comparatively low.
A furhter indicator is that beginner-friendly vegetables often have a rapid growth cycle. That means that you can harvest them after a relatively short growing time.
Easy vegetables for beginners
The following vegetables are easy to grow and thus great for beginners.
#1: Radishes – the perfect beginner’s vegetable
Sowing: When the soil’s no longer frozen Harvesting: 4 – 6 weeks after sowing Pot size: small; a balcony container is sufficient
Radishes were the first vegetables my mum let me grow when I was just a toddler. That said, radishes will work for anyone and everyone who has a patch of soil – be it in a garden, a pot or a container. They have very few requirements on the soil and you can harvest them already after 4 – 6 weeks!
Depending on your growing zone, you can start to sow radishes outside after the last days of frost. In my region (7b) that’s beginning to mid-April. If you have a greenhouse or a cold frame, you can start even earlier.
Prepare the soil and make rows with the stick of your rake or the side of your hand. Sow the seeds 1 cm (1/2 inch) into the row with a distance of 3 – 5 cm (1 – 2 inches). The distance between rows should be about 10 – 15 cm (4 – 6 inches). Cover the seeds with soil, water them and let nature do its magic.
When your radishes are about the size of a large cherry, they’re ready to harvest. If you leave them too long in the ground, they’ll become woody in texture.
You can continually sow radishes until September, which makes them a great gap filler. They grow very well in balcony containers.
Pro tip: When you’ve sowed too tight, plug out all the seedlings that are too close to one another. When they’ve too little room, they won’t build out bulbs.
#2: Rocket salad – an easy green
Sowing: early spring to early autumn Harvesting: 4 – 6 weeks after sowing, multiple times Pot size: small; a balcony container is sufficient
Rocket salad grows similarly fast and easy as radishes. It’s a great salad and addition to pizza and pasta.
Sow rocket salad at around the same time you sow radishes and also in rows. Sow the seeds 1 cm (1/2 inch) deep and keep a distance between rows of 15 – 20 cm (6 – 8 inches).
If you sow in spring, cover the rows with a garden mesh to keep the seeds warm. After about 6 weeks (depending on the temperature), you can harvest your first rocket salad by breaking off the leaves you want to eat.
You can also sow rocket salad continually until September. It also grows well in balcony containers.
Pro tip: Sooner or later rocket salad will shoot into bloom. At that stage, it won’t taste that good any longer. Cut off all the leaves at about 5 cm above the soil and it’ll soon build out new leaves.
#3: Sweet Peas – a must-have for a beginner’s vegetable garden
Sowing: early spring to early summer Harvesting: 6 – 8 weeks after sowing Pot size: You can sow sweet peas in a balcony container (one row per container) but you have to build some kind of stable support for the plants like twigs. Otherwise, the wind will snap them.
Sweet peas are one of my favourite veggies and usually, I snack them right from the stem! And the best thing is they’re terribly easy to grow.
Sowing time is after the last day frosts.
Prepare the soil and mark two rows with a distance of about 20 (8 inches) in between. Sow a pea seed every 3 – 4 cm (1 – 2 inches) and cover the seeds 4 – 5 cm (1.5 – 2 inches) with soil.
Peas grow to a height of up to 50 – 60 cm. For that reason, it is advisable (but not absolutely necessary) to build a trellis of wire or twigs to support the peas.
Also, protect the peas from birds during the first few weeks of growth with a protective net.
After about three months, the sweet peas are ripe for harvesting. Pluck off the peas when they’re still flat so that they’ll continue to bloom and build new peas.
Pro tip: Peas don’t like beans. If you want to grow beans as well, make sure that you don’t plant them next to peas.
#4: Lettuce – easy to grow and so many varieties!
Sowing/planting: Depending on the variety early spring to early autumn Harvesting: 6 – 10 weeks after sowing, in case of pluck salad multiple times Pot size: A balcony container is sufficient for pluck salad; if you want to grow head salad in pots they should at least be as large as the ready-to- harvest head will be.
Lettuce comes in almost all colours and forms. There are green, red and purple varieties, some even with lovely speckles. Some lettuces build out round or elongated “heads”, others consist of loose leaves or rosettes. When you plan wisely, you can grow salad all year round, because some varieties like for example, radicchio unfold their full flavour not until it’s cold.
Lettuce grows quite fast which makes it a perfect gap filler.
The easiest lettuce to cultivate is pluck salad which you sow directly into your patch or container around the same time as radishes. Cover the seeds only very lightly with soil or just press them into the soil without covering them at all. If you just pluck the leaves without damaging the plant’s heart, it will continue to grow leaves for harvesting.
Head lettuce takes a bit more time and space to grow and you have to make sure that the varieties you sow or plant are appropriate for your climate. Head lettuce itself, for example, doesn’t like temperatures above 22°C (100 °F). In summer, therefore, it’s better to plant iceberg lettuce.
Pro tip: If you use seedlings, don’t plant them too deep. They must “wave in the wind”, otherwise they won’t build out heads.
#5: Swiss chard – an easy vegetable with a long harvesting time
Sowing: early spring to late summer Harvesting: 10 – 12 weeks after sowing, multiple times Pot size: The pot should be at least 20 cm high
In my opinion, Swiss chard is the prettiest vegetable ever. It comes in different colours (yellow, orange, red and green) and looks good even in a flower bed. It doesn’t need much regarding nutrients and maintenance and it’s well resistant to pests.
Sow Swiss chard when the temperature is above 15 °C (75 °F) during the day. Sow in rows with a distance of 15 – 20 cm (6 – 8 inches) between plants and about 30 cm (12 inches) between rows. Cover the seeds about 3 cm (1.3 inches) with soil.
After 10 – 12 weeks, you can harvest the stalks and leaves of Swiss chard. Make sure that you leave the plant’s heart intact. That way you can harvest until the first frost.
Pro tip: Swiss chard is closely related to spinach and beetroots which means they need about the same nutrients. To avoid competence, don’t plant these vegetables near each other.
#6: Beetroot – an underrated vegetable for beginners
Sowing: mid to late spring Harvesting: about 6 – 8 weeks after sowing; leave it longer if you want to get larger plants Pot size: The pot should be at least 20 cm high
Beetroot is the jack of all trades in the vegetable world. They come in different colours (even striped varieties) and can be eaten raw, roasted or cooked. They can be stored in sand during the winter months and are also easily preserved.
Beetroot grows best at temperatures around 16 °C (60 °F) which means that we either sow it in spring or later at the beginning of autumn.
Sow beetroots in rows with a distance of 15 cm (6 inches) between plants and 25 cm (10 inches) between rows.
Beetroots can be harvested when they’re about the size of a golf ball, but you can also let them grow.
Pro tip: When harvesting, twist off the leaves. That way, the beetroots don’t dry out so fast and can be stored for a longer time.
#7: Bush beans – easy to grow and a rewarding harvest
Sowing: Late spring / early summer Harvesting: 6 – 10 weeks after sowing Pot size: You can grow bush beans in a balcony container but you must build a stable support for the plants, like twigs. Otherwise, the wind will snap them.
We differ between bush beans and climbing beans. The latter are more difficult to cultivate but bush beans are a great beginners’ vegetable.
Country lores tell us that beans want to hear the bells ring and that they are best planted barefoot. And it’s true! Beans shouldn’t be planted too deep, not more than 2 – 3 cm (about 1 inch) and when the soil is sufficiently warm to walk barefoot. In my region, that’s about the beginning of May.
Either sow bush beans in rows with a distance of 5 cm (2 inches) between plants and 20 cm (8 inches) between rows or sow them in groups of 6 seeds with a distance of 30 – 40 cm (12 – 16 inches) between groups. Sowing in groups has the advantage that the plants support each other. Nevertheless, as long as the variety doesn’t exceed a height of 25 cm (10 inches), I prefer sowing in rows.
After sowing and watering you needn’t do anything. Bush beans are very modest and don’t need much to grow. On the contrary, they even enrich the soil with nitrogen they catch out of the air and store in their roots.
Pro tip: Harvest regularly. The more often you harvest, the more beans you’ll grow.
#8: Potatoes – an easy vegetable for beginners with a magic harvest
Planting: late spring Harvesting: depending on the variety 10 – 24 weeks after planting Pot size: Take a large pot of at least 50 cm (20 inches) in diameter or a sturdy sack.
To cultivate potatoes, you only need some space and time.
Give potatoes a headstart by presprouting them: about 4 weeks before planting, put the planting potatoes on a window sill (this is best done in an egg carton) and let them sprout. You can plant the potatoes about 3 – 4 weeks before the last night frosts.
Dig a hole 10 cm deep into the soil, place a potato with the sprout facing upwards in and carefully cover it with soil. When the leaves are about 15 cm high, earth them up by raking soil from around the plant and accumulating it around the leaves (don’t bury them; the green must still be visible).
Potatoes are also suitable for growing in pots. Put a drainage into a large pot, add about 20 cm (8 inches) of good, rich soil into it, put about 4 – 6 potatoes onto it (depending on the pot size) and cover it with 10 cm (4 inches) of soil. As the leaves grow, earth them up as described above.
Potatoes are ready to harvest when the leaves have died.
Pro tip: Earthing up not only supports the growth of more potatoes but it also protects them from the sun. If exposed to light, the potatoes will turn green and as a consequence won’t be edible.
#9: Bush tomatoes – the easiest of their kind
Sowing (indoors): 6 – 8 weeks before planting out Planting (outdoors): after the last night frosts Harvesting: 8 – 10 weeks after planting, continually until the first frost Pot size: Depending on the variety from a balcony container to a large pot of at least 50 cm (20 inches) in diameter.
Admittedly, tomatoes are usually not considered a beginner-friendly vegetable. They have very special requirements regarding nutrients, temperature and watering and can be a bit tricky to cultivate. However, bush tomatoes are more forgiving than the larger varieties! They don’t need to be pruned or tied up and even grow in large pots.
As a beginner, I recommend buying plants from a good nursery. Prepare the soil by working in compost and/or manure to provide enough nutrients. After the last night frosts (in my zone that’s mid-May), you can plant the tomatoes outdoors, either into your garden patch or even into a large pot. Make sure they have enough water, especially when they grow in pots. (If you don’t know your hardiness zone, check out the “plantmaps” website.)
Bush tomatoes produce abundantly all summer long, providing you with loads of little fruit for a salad or just as a snack.
Pro tip: Tomatoes are very hungry: add some liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks to give them everything they need.
#10: Zucchini / Summer squash – more than you can eat
Sowing (indoors): 4 – 6 weeks before planting out Planting (outdoors): after the last night frosts Harvesting: 8 – 10 weeks after planting Pot size: The pot should be at least 50 cm (20 inches) in diameter
There’s hardly any vegetable that produces reliably so many fruits as a zucchini. 2 – 3 plants can easily feed a family of four, with plenty to spare for preservation. Zucchini can be eaten raw or cooked, even the blossoms are edible.
Summer squash is very easily grown from seeds. However, as the plant likes it warm, you’d best start them indoors. Zucchini grow very fast which is why I recommend sowing them around 4 – 6 weeks before the last night frosts. In my region, night frosts are usually over by mid-May, which means I sow the seeds indoors at the beginning of April.
When the plant has four leaves and night frosts are definitely over, you can plant it out into the garden patch or a large enough pot.
Zucchini need nutritious soil and some fertilising every four weeks or so. As a beginner, it’s best to use a ready-made liquid fertiliser for fruit-bearing vegetables which is normally made of organic manures. If you want to know more about fertilisation you can read about it here, here and here.
Pro tip: Harvest zucchini when they are between 15 – 20 cm (6 – 8 inches). They taste best at that size and continual harvest will produce an abundance of new fruit.
#11: Kale – the easy-to-grow superfood
Sowing: March (indoors), after the last night frosts (outdoors) Harvesting: August to October. If you harvest only the outer leaves you stimulate growth and harvest yield. That way you can harvest throughout winter. Pot size: Take a large pot of at least 50 cm (20 inches) in diameter.
Kale is not only a superfood due to its high vitamin content but also very easy to grow, even in containers.
Further, it’s frost-hardy which makes it great for early and late cultivation. You can even harvest it in winter when nothing else grows outside.
Kale is a hungry plant, however, which means that you must enrich the soil with nutrients, for example by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. Additionally, it needs further nutrients during the summer which can be done by watering it with diluted nettle manure.
Sow kale in rows at a distance of 50 cm (20 inches) between plants and rows.
Pro tip: Although frost is not necessary, light frost and sunshine stimulate the storing of sugar in the leaves which makes them even better.
Essential Growing Tips for Beginner Vegetable Gardeners
The next step on your way to cultivating vegetables is to remove all weeds, grass patches, rocks and debris from your patch. That way your vegetables won’t have to compete for nutrients, light and water
It’s good to incorporate compost, well-rotted manure or other organic matter into your soil. This not only adds nutrients and enhances water retention but it also improves the soil structure. Add 5 – 8 cm (2 – 3 inches) of organic matter and mix it thoroughly into the soil.
If you plant in a pot, make sure you have high-quality planting soil with all the nutrients vegetables need. Ask your local nursery what soil is best for your plans.
After planting, add a layer of mulch – yes, in pots as well. This will suppress weeds and retain moisture while at the same time regulating the soil temperature. Over time, the mulch will decompose and that way add more organic matter to the soil.
Watering techniques
After sowing or planting always water the seeds or plants thoroughly. That way, the soil is pressed close to the seed or roots without any space in between. The plants can grow easily into the soil and get water and nutrients from it without effort.
As we mulch, our plants needn’t be watered very often. Unfortunately, most beginner gardeners water way too much, sometimes even drowning their plants! Watch your vegetables and only water them when they show clear signs of a lack of water.
Watering is best done either in the mornings or in the evenings, never when the sun is blazing down. Imagine you take a sunbath and suddenly someone drowns you in cold water. That’s how your plants will feel if you water them during a hot day.
When you water, water deeply. Instead of regularly watering shallowly, water once but deeply. The water should go down all the way to the roots which in some cases can be pretty long.
If you want to invest a little, you can buy drip irrigation and water hose systems. These are the most efficient watering methods. They deliver water directly to the plant’s root zone, minimize water waste, and keep foliage dry. Drip systems can be set on timers for consistent, precise watering and are especially useful for larger gardens.
Sunlight requirements
Vegetables need light to grow, some more than others, but they all need it. Take therefore the sunniest part of your garden to create your vegetable garden, build a raised bed or put your pots. Make sure there are no large trees, buildings etc. that would throw a shadow onto your plants.
Pest management strategies
Better to hear the hard truth right now: there is no garden without pests! BUT: although we don’t want to share our veggies with them we should focus on using the least intervening methods first. The goal is to create a healthy, self-regulating environment in your garden and prevent pests rather than eliminating them with hard chemicals.
An easy but often overlooked approach is to build physical barriers. Install snail barriers and use garden mesh to protect your plants. Additionally, gather snails and harmful caterpillars and dispose of them far away from your garden.
A good step towards regulation is companion planting, which means planting together vegetables that help keep pests away from each other. A good example of that concept is planting onions and carrots together. Onions secrete an odour that keeps the carrot fly (a common pest for carrots) away while the carrots prevent onion flies from attacking the onions.
Fertilization fundamentals
As you know, plants need “food” which they take up with their roots from the soil. However, the nutrients in the soil are not always enough which is why we need to “feed” (= fertilise) them. Every kind of vegetable needs a mix of key nutrients for root growth, healthy leaves and overall plant strength. The key to success lies in the ground – literally. A simple soil test will tell you what your garden needs.
It’s always a good idea to work in compost or well-rotted manure before planting in spring. These methods will slowly release nutrients and improve soil structure. Depending on the plants’ requirements, however, you’ll have to add nutrients at different stages of growth. Be careful though to not overdo it. Much does not help much here.
Container-Friendly Vegetables for Small Spaces
If you don’t have a garden but maybe only a patio, balcony or concrete backyard, you can grow all of the above vegetables in containers. Container gardening is slightly different from regular gardening but with a bit of preparation, both are equally easy.
Soil and pot selection
If in doubt always take the larger pot. There’s nothing more frustrating than watching plants grow and then stagnate or even die before you can harvest anything, just because their roots don’t have enough space in their container.
The second important factor is the soil. Although it’s more expensive, use high-quality, nutrient-rich soil for your containers. You can use ready-mixed vegetable soil or compost. Especially fruit-bearing vegetables like zucchini or tomatoes need plenty of nutrients to keep them going during their long growth period.
Sunlight and watering requirements
All vegetables need sun but some more than others. Fruit-bearing vegetables like tomatoes, zucchini and potatoes prefer a place with many sun hours while others like salad and radishes can grow well in a place with fewer sun hours.
If you grow plants in containers, you must always have a sharp eye on the water. Containers dry out a lot quicker than soil in the garden and therefore must be watered more often. Especially tomatoes, zucchini and potatoes need plenty of water. Too much, on the other hand, isn’t good either. Watch your plants carefully and only water them when they need it.
Common Mistakes to Avoid for New Vegetable Gardeners
Here are a few common mistakes I’ve often seen new gardeners make:
Overwatering plants
Water thoroughly when sowing or planting and then only if it’s really necessary.
Incorrect spacing
Resist the urge to sow or plant veggies too close together and give them the space they need although it may seem too big at the beginning. But trust me, it’s a bit like children and oversized garments: they’ll grow into it.
Poor soil preparation
Prepare your patch into a bed your plants will want to lie in. That means, put out weeds and rocks and add compost and well-rotted manure
Ignoring local climate conditions
Learn your growth zone and cultivate your garden accordingly. It’s frustrating to plant too early only to watch our seedlings die from frost.
Unrealistic expectations
Remember the first letter you learned to write? Did you think you could write a whole book with it? No? Then why do you think you can feed a whole family from your first garden’s harvest? Like your garden, your experience will grow.
Conclusion
It can be a bit daunting to start cultivating vegetables but don’t let yourself be intimidated by that! By observing a few simple steps and using beginner-friendly vegetables, your success is guaranteed. Remember, every single gardener out there started exactly where you are now: with curiosity, a bit of uncertainty and the passion to grow something new. Don’t get discouraged by initial setbacks or small harvests. Gardening is a skill that will develop with time and the willingness to learn from every experience. Start small, stay curious and celebrate everything you grow.
Whether you’re nurturing a few balcony pots or transforming a backyard into a garden, you’re not just growing vegetables: You cultivate a deep connection with nature, understand where your food comes from and create something truly magical with your own hands!
Welcome to the wonderful world of gardening. Your adventure starts now!
Hey there future garden guru! Are you excited to try your hand at vegetable gardening, but feeling a bit nervous about where to start? Don’t worry – you’re in the right place!
Whether you have a large garden you want to start cultivating or just a small patio, in this ultimate guide I’ll show you how to create your own veggie paradise. From picking the perfect spot to choosing plants that practically grow themselves, we’ll turn you into a gardening whiz before you can say “carrot”.
So, are you ready for an adventure that will be equally rewarding for body and soul? Grab your gardening gloves and we’ll dig right in! With this step-by-step guide (and some foolproof tips), you’ll be soon eating your first homegrown tomatoes (even if they look a bit wonky).
Step 1: Choose the right spot for a vegetable garden
The first step on our journey is selecting the right spot for your vegetable garden-to-be.
Location
If you can, set up your vegetable garden near your house. That way, you can just step out and grab some lettuce and herbs for your lunch or some veggies for cooking dinner. A patio or balcony is also a good possibility to create a garden (think containers and raised beds).
If you don’t have a space, that’s not necessarily an obstacle. I, for example, live in a rented apartment on the second floor and created a vegetable garden on the outskirts of my village.
Watch out for seemingly unused land and ask the proprietor if you can establish a garden there.
Rent an allotment garden.
Ask a farmer if he can spare a row of a crop field that you can use.
Sometimes people with a huge garden that they cannot cultivate (any longer) will be happy to rent it out to you for either a small fee or a share of your harvest.
Get creative. You’ll find your perfect spot.
Light
When choosing where you want to set up your garden, the spot must be sunny, at best facing south/south-west and protected from winds. It should also be level, although a slight south-facing slope wouldn’t hurt. And there shouldn’t be any large trees or houses that could throw shadows on the patches.
Next, consider your available sunlight. 6 hours per day is a minimum. Most vegetables are sun worshippers and need long sunny days to thrive, although some like beetroots and spinach will also grow in a place with less sunlight.
Soil
Another important point to consider is soil quality. At least, if you want to plant directly into the ground. To get a feel for the soil, take a handful and press it together. Can you form a small sausage or does it run through your fingers? Is it soft and pliable or hard as a brick? To learn more about the different soil types, how to determine them and what you can do to improve them, read this post.
If you want to be sure about what soil type dominates your garden, take a few samples from different areas of the space and send them to a lab for testing.
Sounds too complicated? I understand perfectly. In step 3 I’ll show you my favourite (and the easiest) method to create your patches without worrying about the soil quality. Keep on reading!
Step 2: Determine the ideal size for your vegetable garden
Most beginners start with a garden that’s way too large for them, soon get overwhelmed and ultimately give up, thinking that they are “just not cut out for it”. That’s simply not true!
If you want to succeed, start small. 4 – 9 square meters (45 – 100 square feet) will be enough if you have never before cultivated a garden. You must be able to cope with watering, weeding and tending the garden without getting overwhelmed. When you’ve gained more experience, you can enlarge your garden by adding more patches.
If you only have limited outdoor space, don’t get discouraged. As I said before, you could look out for renting gardening space. Or you can try out alternative gardening techniques, such as square-foot gardening, or vertical growing systems. With these methods, you can use your space more efficiently to grow quite a large amount of produce.
Step 3: Create patches for your vegetable garden
There are different methods of creating patches for a vegetable garden.
Flat beds
Dig
The most common idea people have when creating a new patch is to grab a spade, spit into their hands and dig up the soil. Well, that can be a good method, especially when reviving a neglected vegetable garden and digging in some manure or compost to enhance your soil’s nutrient content. But that’s the only occasion I’d recommend digging for. If you want, of course, you can do that and show your determination and muscle to your neighbours. But why put in so much effort when you can have the same—or even a better—result a lot easier? Watch out for the next method.
No-dig (my favourite!)
I try to keep the amount of hard manual labour in the garden as low as possible. That’s why I love to make these compost patches. They don’t require any digging and can be made with minimum effort regarding time, muscle and money! All you need is cardboard boxes (which you can often get for free in bike shops and humus/compost. If you want to go really crazy, get some logs to border the patch but that’s not necessary. Cover the ground with cardboard, make a border for the patch with logs (optional) and fill up with humus and/or compost. That’s it! Easy, fast and so rewarding.
Raised beds
Common raised beds
But what to do, when the place you have picked is a gravely, sandy or stone-hard area? Don’t worry! Even if you only have a concrete backyard or a balcony you can still plant vegetables there. Not in the ground, of course, but in raised beds that you can either build from scratch or buy as a simple DIY set.
Besides the possibility of controlling your soil quality, raised beds have many more advantages: weeds grow sparsely, pests can be controlled easily and working in a standing position guarantees minimal back strain. So even when you have good garden soil, you can still build raised beds, create a lovely sight and spare your back.
Mound beds
Have you ever heard of “Hügelkultur” or mound beds? It’s a widespread concept in Eastern Europe and Germany and a great way to get rid of loads of garden waste and create a patch that’s self-fertilising for years to come.
The edges of the meadow where I have my current garden were (and in parts still are) overgrown with shrubbery and even small trees. To make entering possible, I had to severely cut back the wild bushes and even hack out several small trees. Although the majority of my newly designed patches were made according to the no-dig method with cardboard boxes and humus, I decided to add two “Hügelbeete” (mound beds) where I could discard all that garden waste. They hadn’t required fertilising during the first three years and although I had built them about 80 cm / 32 in high, now, in my fourth year, they have fallen to the same level as the other beds.
Step 4: Creating a garden layout
Let me share a pro tip here that I learned the hard way: graph paper is your best friend when planning a garden layout. Each square can for example represent one square foot or ¼ square metre which makes it super easy to plan. Take your time here: 30 minutes of planning your layout can save you hours of frustration later.
When planning your patches it’s ideal to make them no broader than 1,2 m / 4 ft. That way, you can reach every part of them without contorting yourself. Theoretically, the patch length doesn’t matter, but practical experience shows that 2 m /6.5 ft is ideal.
Leave at least 50 cm / 2ft between rows for walking paths that you can cover with wooden boards or planks, wood chips or even grass.
You’ll also have to consider access to water sources when planning your garden layout. You won’t want to drag a heavy hose across your yard every time you need to water your plants.
Make it as easy for you as possible!
Step 5: What vegetables do you want to grow?
Now that you have your garden layout you’ll want to consider what vegetables to plant.
This is where I see most beginners go wrong- they want to grow everything at once! When I started gardening, I made this mistake and ended up with way too many zucchini and not enough of the stuff we actually eat.
Here’s my tried-and-true method for choosing vegetables:
Preferences
Make a list of what your family likes and really eats. What are your favourites and what don’t you like at all? There’s no sense in growing kale if you loathe it.
Hardiness zone
When you know what you’d like to plant, check your hardiness zone.
If you live in the States or Canada just Google “hardiness zone + your zip code”, if you live in any other part of the world, search for “hardiness zone + your country”.
Knowing your hardiness zone is important for knowing what plants grow well in your climate and which of them may need additional support (like a greenhouse for example).
Vertical space
Have you thought of integrating poles and trellises into your garden plan? Believe me, using vertical space can make a huge difference. Even if you have a large garden, elements of vertical gardening can be a game-changer! Not only can you grow more on less space but it also makes harvesting much easier. Great plants for vertical gardening are for example peas, climbing beans, tomatoes and summer squash.
Beginner-friendly vegetables
Based on my experience (and that of a lot of gardeners 😊) some vegetables are easy to grow and for that reason perfect for beginners:
Leaf lettuce
Onions / Garlic
Zucchini/summer squash
Carrots
Spinach
Cherry tomatoes
Bush beans
Yet, don’t choose too many different veggies. As with the garden size, start small and expand.
Step 6: Make a planting plan
Alright, by now you not only know where to establish your vegetable garden and what beds to put in but you’ve also decided what vegetables to grow. Time to plant? Not yet. There’s one tiny – but important – step before and that’s: creating a planting plan. So grab your garden layout plan and let’s get started.
Basics
There are some basic things you should consider like planting large vegetables on the north side of your garden so that they won’t shadow smaller plants.
Another tried and tested tip is to group plants with similar water needs together.
However, that’s not all. When you want to make the most of your garden, you have to consider companion planting.
Companion planting
Remember that time in school when the teacher randomly divided the class into teams? You so wanted to be with your best friend in a group but instead, you ended up with that kid you loathed. Friendships and aversions also happen with plants. Some grow really well in each other’s company, others have a negative influence on each other. That’s what companion planting is all about: pairing “best buddy” veggies and avoiding planting arch enemies together.
Here are some examples of plants that work well together:
– Tomatoes + Basil (keeps pests away and improves flavour)
Making a planting plan may take some time but it’s worth every minute. A good plan is essential for healthy plants and a good harvest. Remember, your first garden plan isn’t set in stone. Think of it as a rough draft that you’ll keep tweaking as you learn what works best in your specific situation. That’s the beauty of gardening – there’s always room to grow and improve!
Step 7: Starting from seeds or buying plants?
Some plants thrive better when you sow them directly where they shall grow. Carrots are a good example. They don’t want to be transplanted as they build long roots but grow better when directly sown into the bed.
Other plants get a headstart when you sow them indoors and plant them out after the last night frosts. Cabbages, for example, which usually have a long cultivation time, profit from being sown indoors in February or March (depending on your climate zone) and transplanted into the garden mid to late April.
Another example of plants that should be sown indoors is tomatoes and peppers. As they like it really warm, you can only plant them outside after the last night’s frosts. In my zone (7b), that’s mid-May. If I started to sow them out then, their fruits would never ripen.
Starting plants from seeds indoors is also a great way for succession planting. For example: when you’ve harvested your spinach in late spring, you can plant cauliflower seedlings into the free row.
Although starting from seeds has its advantages, it also requires some knowledge about what the plants need and the right timing for each vegetable. As a beginner, it can be overwhelming to start from seeds, so it’s totally okay to work with plants from a nursery if possible. That way you can feel your way around gardening first and gradually gather more experience.
Later on, you sure will want to try to grow your vegetables “from scratch”, i.e. from seeds. You’ll have a larger variety with seeds and as I said it’s way cheaper. Also, there are some plants that you’ll always have to sow. Carrots for example (and other root vegetables) are sowed directly into the patch.
Later on, you’ll certainly want to try to grow your vegetables “from scratch”, i.e. from seeds. You’ll have a larger variety with seeds and it’s way cheaper.
Step 8: Sowing and planting
The time has come! You’re about to sow your first seeds and plant your first seedlings. Don’t worry: if you observe a few tips, everything will be fine.
Preparing the patch
Before you start to put something INTO the patch, you have to put OUT what doesn’t belong there. You guessed it: get started weeding. This step can be omitted, of course, if you have created a new patch or raised bed. In all other cases, make sure that your vegetable patch is weed-free.
After weeding, loosen the soil with a hoe and break up any soil clumps. Rake your patch to create an even surface to sow into.
Direct sowing
The exact time for sowing your seeds depends on the hardiness zone you live in. However, I recommend having a close look at your seed packets. They usually indicate the right sowing time together with the right spacing.
When you sow directly, draw a straight line with the handle of your rake. Using a string may help you to get straight rows. Then put the seeds into that line observing the right spacing. When the row is finished, carefully cover the seeds with soil and press it slightly either with your hands or with the back of your rake.
Carefully water the seed line so that it’s fully soaked through but not water-logged.
If you have large seeds like pumpkin or squash, you can make individual holes in the right spacing. Covering with soil and watering are carried out similarly.
Labelling
I must admit I’ve often “forgotten” (read: was too lazy) to label my seed rows and I don’t want to know how many seedlings I’ve ripped out, taking them for weeds. So do yourself a favour, write the plant name on a label and stick that at the end of the row. You can get labels made from plastic, wood, clay and even slate.
Seedlings
You’ve bought vegetable seedlings or a friendly neighbour gave you some spare ones and now you’re ready to plant. Prepare the soil as described above and then… don’t plant yet. You’ve got to harden the seedlings first.
Hardening off
The very first time I planted vegetables, I learned the hard way to harden off my seedlings. I was so excited about all the (store-bought) tomato seedlings, that I planted them straight from their warm and comfortable indoor spot right into the garden. This turned out to be a big mistake. Nearly half of them withered away from sunburn within a few days, and the rest looked like they were hanging on by a thread.
Seedlings can be compared to little children who have never been outside. You can’t shoo them out just like that but have to ease them into it. Some 7 – 10 days before transplanting, I start putting out the seedlings at a sheltered spot for just 2 – 3 hours.
Each day after that, I increase their outdoor time by about an hour and gradually move them into more direct sunlight. After that, they are ready to plant outside
Planting
I recommend laying your seedlings out on the patch before planting. That way you can still adjust the spacing between plants. Then dig up a whole that’s slightly larger than the root bale and fill in some ripe compost or well-rotted manure. Carefully remove the plant from its container (make sure that the stem doesn’t break!), put it into the hole and fill the space between root bale and the hole edge with the soil you dug out earlier. Carefully press the soil around the plants and water them generously so that the soil there will be no air holes and the roots are well soaked.
Planting depth
A rule of thumb when it comes to how deep you should set your veggies is that they should be planted at the same depth they were growing in their containers. That way you usually can’t go wrong.
An exception to this rule, however, is tomatoes. I plant them super deep, which means I bury about 2/3 of the plant after having removed the lower leaves. That way those little fuzzy hairs on the stem turn into roots and thus make your plants super sturdy.
Planting width
When you start veggies from seeds, take a look at the seed package. Usually, the spacing between plants and rows is indicated there.
When you have seedlings to plant, here are some general widths to go with:
– Tomatoes: 70 – 100 cm / 24-36 inches apart (believe me, they need it)
– Peppers: 30 – 40 cm / 12-16 inches apart
– Cucumbers: 30 cm / 12 inches apart along a trellis
– Broccoli and cauliflower: 40 – 45 cm / 16 – 18 inches apart
Watering
After the initial watering directly after sowing and planting, cover the soil with mulch (for example dry grass clippings) to prevent it from drying out. During the first week, you best check the soil moisture daily by sticking a finger about 3 cm / 1 inch deep into the ground. If you have to water, it’s best to do so in the morning. This makes sure that the leaves can dry before the evening which helps prevent fungal diseases.
Remember, every garden is different, and what works in my Zone 7b might need tweaking in your area. But these basic principles of hardening off, proper spacing and careful watering have served me well through many growing seasons. The key is paying attention to your plants – they’ll let you know if they’re happy or struggling if you learn to read their signs.
Step 9: Maintenance
The garden patches are made, the vegetables are planted, and now you can relax and wait for the harvest? Wrong! Think of your vegetables as your babies: you have to make sure that they have everything they need to grow into healthy adults:
Watering
As I said before, watering the right way is especially important at the beginning when you’ve just planted your vegetables. Unfortunately, most beginners tend to overwater their plants. Except for the first week after planting, it’s much better to let your plants “sit dry” for a while before watering them. That way they will grow deep and strong roots that will not only provide them with water but also make them sturdier.
Mulching
I’m a huge fan of mulching! After sowing and planting, cover the soil with mulch to prevent it from drying out and protect it from weeds. If you have sowed, distribute a very thin mulch layer, for example, dried grass clippings so that the seeds get enough water and light to grow. When the plants are larger the mulch layer can be thicker. Just make sure that the mulch material is dry, otherwise it may mould and spread fungal diseases.
You may have to weed despite mulching but only sparsely and those weeds will come out very easily.
Fertilising
Like humans, plants need to eat. And just like humans, it’s not healthy for them to let them have fast food only. Nutrients are key to a healthy life! Get informed on your plants’ needs and feed them accordingly with fertiliser (from plants or animal origin). For beginners, it’s best to buy a well-balanced fertiliser but you can also make some organic fertiliser at home. Be careful, however: “Much helps much” is not valid in the garden! When “overfeeding” your plants they will become mushy and prone to diseases. It’s best to feed your plants organically throughout the season.
Step 10: Pests and diseases in the vegetable garden
Truth bomb: you will at some time have pests and diseases in your vegetable garden. Hopefully not often and not to a large extent but that’s how nature works. It’s got nothing against us (I hope) but seeks balance by eliminating weak or ill plants through pests and diseases. The good news is that you are not powerless.
Companion planting (again)
First of all, by doing companion planting you’ve already done a great thing to hold pests and diseases at bay. Take the classic couple of carrots and onions for example: while carrots keep the onion fly away, onions hold off the carrot fly. If you know that and plant accordingly, you’ve already taken a huge step toward a healthy vegetable garden.
Physical protection and collecting
Another thing you can do is use physical protection like vegetable mesh. If you protect your cabbage plants with a mesh when the cabbage fly is around, trying to lay its eggs on your fondly raised plants, it’ll lose out.
However, when you already have pests in your garden, especially caterpillars and snails, it’s effective to collect them and discard them somewhere else, far away from your garden. For hunting snails, early mornings and evenings are best, as they’ll then come out of their hiding places. Caterpillars are best collected during the day.
Eco-system
Taking the alleged easy way by using chemical pest control has no room in my garden world. After all, you should always bear in mind that pests and diseases in your garden are a sign of imbalance. Make sure to establish a healthy eco-system with enough room for beneficial insects, birds and small mammals that’ll help you keep pests at bay. Care for your garden soil by fertilising it wisely with organic material, discarding infected plant parts and mulching. That way your garden will stay healthy.
Step 11: Harvest and enjoy
Let me tell you about my first attempt at harvesting broccoli- I waited so long for those heads to get “grocery store big”… and ended up with tough, flowering stems that were practically inedible. Now I know better – Harvest when florets are tight and dark green
Harvest timing
Here’s a quick cheat sheet for common veggies I’ve learned through experience:
Beans: pick when they’re about as thick as a pencil but before you can see the beans inside
Tomatoes: Pick when colourful. but firm
Cucumbers: 6-8 inches is perfect
Zucchini: Check daily or prepare to find baseball bats hiding under the leaves
Bell peppers: wait until they reach full size and desired colour
Oh, and use actual garden tools instead of wrestling with your plants. Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners makes all the difference.
Preserving
The real challenge hits when everything starts ripening at once. I remember standing in my kitchen one August, surrounded by mountains of tomatoes and thinking “What in the world am I gonna do with all these?”
Freezing is my go-to for most vegetables as it’s fast and easy. Just remember to label everything you pop into the freezer – playing “freezer surprise” in January isn’t as funny as it sounds!
Canning is not as scary as it might look (although a pressure canner sends off those mad scientist vibes). I do water bath canning for tomatoes and pickles, and pressure can green beans and other low-acid veggies. Just remember to always follow tested recipes and processing times!
Dehydrating has become another favourite preserving method as dried vegetables take up way less storage space than canned or frozen ones. Just make sure everything is completely dry before storing, or you might end up with mouldy surprises later (don’t ask…).
Step 12: Build your soil
Ok, strictly speaking, this step is a preparation for your NEXT gardening year. But, as I’m absolutely sure that you’re hooked by now and on your best way to becoming a gardening addict, this step is crucial for a further great harvest in the upcoming season.
After harvesting, the garden season isn’t over. On the contrary: you have to make sure that your soil is well nourished and protected so that your vegetables will grow as well (or even better) in the next season.
Mulching
Make sure your soil is always well-covered during winter. You can either put half-rotted compost on your patches or cover them with dried grass, leaves, or wood chips. The soil beneath the mulch is usually a bit warmer and that way mulch protects the soil organisms.
Soil building
To build your soil, you can for example sow green manure like phacelia. Not only do they cover the soil and protect it from washing off but they also collect nitrogen from the air, thereby forming the basis for plant nutrition. Additionally, they build a mulch layer when they die in winter, covering and protecting the soil. In spring, you can cut them off and dig the remnants in.
Get Growing and Enjoy the Rewards!
Okay, let’s quickly recap the key steps to get a new vegetable garden up and running:
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil near your house (if possible)
Decide what to plant based on your climate and preferences
Build garden patches or raised beds
Buy seedlings, start them indoors or directly sow seeds outdoors
Properly plant and space your veggies
Water, weed, and care for your garden regularly
Growing your own veggies is incredibly rewarding! You’ll get fresh, flavourful and nutritious food and it’s a satisfying and eco-friendly task.
Even with limited space, you can have an amazing little garden.
Ready to get started? I’m excited to hear about your gardening journey. Reach out if you have any other questions. Happy growing!
Let’s be honest: there comes a point every autumn when we hit “peak pumpkin spice”. You know, when even your neighbour’s cat seems to wear a pumpkin spice collar. But wait: before you swear off anything pumpkin for the rest of your life, let me introduce you to this recipe for sweet-sour pumpkin.
In this form, pumpkin proves it is more than just soup or pie. This German-inspired dish (we call it “Kürbis süß-sauer” – try to say that three times fast!) balances the pumpkin’s natural sweetness with a tangy vinegar-based sauce.
I grew up with this heavenly dish. My mom still makes it usually around mid-November and the smell of the sweet vinegar and spices in combination with misty days, tell me that we’re nearing Christmas time.
The best thing about this dish is that it’s so versatile: What I love most about this dish is its chameleon-like quality – serve it warm alongside your Thanksgiving turkey, at room temperature on a holiday appetizer board, or chilled as a unique addition to winter salads. The sweet-sour preparation also means it keeps beautifully in the fridge, making it perfect for busy weeknight meals or advance holiday preparations.
Serve it warm, and it’s comfort food. Serve it cold, and it suddenly becomes fancy antipasto. Leave it in the fridge, and it gets even better. Whether you grew your own pumpkins this year or picked some up from the local farmers’ market, this recipe offers a delicious way to preserve the yellow berries well into winter.
So if you’re ready to rescue a pumpkin from its pie-destined fate and transform it into something that’ll make your taste buds do a happy dance, stick around. This recipe is about to become your new fall flex – because nobody needs to know it’s actually super easy to make. (That’ll be our little secret!)
1. Chop the firm flesh of ripe but not overripe pumpkins into cubes of about 1,5 cm (3/4 inch).
2. Put vinegar, sugar, lemon peel and spices into a pot and bring it to a boil.
3. Cook the pumpkin cubes in several portions until they are glassy through and through. This takes some time, about 20 – 30 minutes, depending on the size of the cubes. Make sure they are really cooked through, otherwise the preserve won’t last.
4. When the pumpkins are well cooked, put them out with a slotted spoon and put them into the jars.
5. Let the liquid boil for 5 minutes. Remove the lemon peel and pour the boiling-hot juice into the jars so that the pumpkin cubes are under the brim. Immediately tight-seal the lids.
6. Stored in a cool and dark place, sweet-sour pumpkin will last at least for one year.
Sweet-sour pumpkins
The best thing about sweet-sour pumpkin is that it’s so versatile: What I love most about this dish is its chameleon-like quality – serve it warm alongside your Thanksgiving turkey, at room temperature on a holiday appetizer board, or chilled as a unique addition to winter salads. The sweet-sour preparation also means it keeps beautifully in the fridge, making it perfect for busy weeknight meals or advance holiday preparations.
Chop the firm flesh of ripe but not overripe pumpkins into cubes of a 1.5 cm (3/4 inch)
Put vinegar, sugar, lemon peel and spices into a pot and bring it to a boil.
Cook the pumpkin cubes in several portions until they are glassy through and through. This takes some time, about 20 – 30 minutes, depending on the size of the cubes. Make sure they are really cooked through, otherwise the preserve won’t last.
When the pumpkins are well cooked, put them out with a slotted spoon and put them into the jars.
Let the liquid boil for 5 minutes. Remove the lemon peel and pour the boiling-hot juice into the jars so that the pumpkin cubes are under the brim. Immediately tight-seal the lids.
Stored in a cool and dark place, sweet-sour pumpkin will last at least for one year.
Now, if that’s not proof enough that pumpkins can break free from their spice-laden destiny, I don’t know what is! This recipe has turned more pumpkin sceptics into believers than a fairy godmother turning pumpkins into carriages (although, unlike Cinderella’s ride, these sweet-sour pumpkins won’t turn back into regular pumpkins at midnight).
So, if you’re looking for a pumpkin recipe other than pie, this one’s your new best friend. Your taste buds will thank you and your dinner guests will be impressed. And if anyone asks where you got this recipe, just wink mysteriously and say it’s an old family secret. Or you know, share the link to this blog – I’m good either way! 😉
Once the apples, plums, and pears are harvested, once all the nuts are dried and in bags for storage, and the vegetable garden is cleaned up for winter, we are blessed with one last fruit: the quince. Looking like a knobbly apple but smelling deliciously aromatic, quinces transform from hard and astringent into sweet or savoury preserves and dishes. For decades, quinces were regarded as old-fashioned, but their unique flavour has been rediscovered for preserving and seasonal cooking.
Unlike apples and pears, to which they are related, quinces can’t be eaten raw. Through preservation, however, they transform their colour and release their wonderful fragrance, a mixture of apples, pears and roses. Whether you’ve discovered these golden beauties at a local farmers’ market or are lucky enough to have a quince tree in your garden, I show you five foolproof ways to preserve their unique charm.
From classic jellies to Spanish membrillo (a quince paste) that pairs wonderfully with cheese, these recipes will help you capture the essence of autumn’s golden fruit in jars. Even if you are an absolute beginner and have never preserved fruit before, these step-by-step methods will ensure success in the kitchen.
Introduction
A Brief History of Quince
Quince is the sole member of the genus Cydonia of the Rosaceae family (source: Wikipedia). As I said before, quinces are related to apples and pears that are Rosaceaes, as well. Originally, quince is native to the region of the Caspian Sea, but it thrives in a variety of climates, even cold ones.
In ancient Greece, quinces were attributed to Aphrodite and often called “golden apples” which shows how cherished they were even then. But also in Europe quinces were highly esteemed and for some time even a status symbol for wealth.
Typically, quinces are available from late September through December. While apples and pears store very well and thus can be consumed almost year-round, fresh quinces cannot be stored very long. If we want to extend their enjoyment throughout the entire year, we have to preserve them.
Unique Transformation Process
Raw quinces are hard, astringent and inedible. By cooking and preserving, however, they undergo a remarkable change:
Their colour transforms from a pale yellow to a beautiful rose-pink to red.
Their hard flesh becomes tender and succulent.
Harsh tannins which are responsible for the astringent effect, develop into a honeylike sweetness.
Their fragrance and flavour intensify.
Culinary Versatility
So, why would we make the effort to preserve quinces? The answer is easy: preserved quinces are more versatile than fresh ones. Quince jelly, for example, brightens your morning toast and pairs very well with roasted meats. Membrillo, a Spanish quince paste, is essential for cheese boards. Preserved quince in syrup can be added to desserts all year round. And have you ever tasted how dried quince can enhance a winter stew!
Apart from adding to your stockpile, home-preserved quince products can also make unique and appreciated gifts for loved ones. Specialty quince preserves may be expensive to buy ready-made but are affordable to make at home.
Last but not least, quinces are beneficiary to our health: they are rich in vitamin C, dietary fibers as well as antioxidants. Furthermore, they have natural compounds that aid digestion. Best of all: these beneficial properties are retained by our preserving methods.
Before You Begin
Selecting and Preparing Quince
To get the best preserves you must make sure that you have the best fruit. Quinces are usually ripe between the end of September and the end of October. Only choose firm, ripe quinces without any blemishes. Look for a yellow-gold colour, green quinces are not ripe yet.
If you can’t process the quinces right after harvest, you may store them at a cool and dark place at room temperature 13 – 15 °C (55 – 60 °F) for 1 – 2 weeks.
You can also store them in the fridge: wrap them individually in newspaper and put them in the crisper drawer. That way, they’ll last for 2 months.
If you have a very cold basement or a root cellar you can store quinces in shallow boxes layered with newspaper. At a temperature of 0 – 4 °C (32 – 40 °F) and a humidity of 85 %, they’ll last 3 – 4 months.
Never store quinces in plastic bags as they will retain too much moisture and mould!
Basic preparation steps
There are some basic steps for preparing quinces. First of all, remove the downy fuzz by rubbing it off with a wet cloth. This is an important step as the fuzz causes a bitter taste.
Afterwards, wash the quinces and dry them thoroughly.
Depending on what you want to make, you’ll have to peel the fruits. This is best done with a potato peeler. Then quarter the quinces and remove the core. This may be a bit tricky as the quinces are relatively hard. Be careful with your fingers.
How to preserve quince: preserving methods
There are different methods of preserving quinces, from cooking to juicing and even drying. Let’s break down every method:
Classic Quince Jelly
Ingredients
Quinces (as much as you can stack in your pot)
Water
Instructions
Juicing
To make quince jelly, we have to make juice first. For that purpose, rub off the downy fuzz, then wash the quinces and cut them into quarters. For making juice it’s not necessary to peel the quinces or remove the core. On the contrary: as the peels contain a large amount of pectin, it’s advantageous to leave them on.
There are two methods for making juice from quinces (or apples or pears for that matter): with a steam juicer or with a normal pot.
If you use a steam juicer, fill the bottom pot with water to the mark. Put on the juicer pot and insert the fruit basket in which you put all the quince quarters. Close the lid and heat the water up. The hot water vapour will gently cook the fruits and release their juice which gathers in the juice pot. From there it can be extracted via the attached tube and filled into sterilized glass bottles or jars.
However, a steam juicer is not the only tool you can use to make juice from quinces. A simple (large) pot with a lid is also ok. In that case, chop the quinces into quarters, put them into the pot and fill up with water until all the fruits are under the brim. Bring the water to the boil and let it simmer for 45 – 60 minutes. Afterwards, strain the juice through a colander that you layered with a cheesecloth. To squeeze out every last drop of the juice, gently press the quinces out. Fill the hot juice into sterilized bottles or jars.
Cooking the jelly
To make the jelly, measure one litre of the quince juice. Put it into a pot and add 1 kg of preserving sugar 1:1 or 500 g of preserving sugar 2:1.
Mix it all very well until the sugar has dissolved and bring this syrup to a boil. Let it boil for 4 minutes and test its consistency by dropping a spoonful of liquid onto a plate. Tilt the plate and let the mixture run. Wipe through the jelly trail with your finger. If it sets, it’s ready to be poured into jam jars. If not, let it boil for another minute and repeat the test.
When the jelly’s ready, carefully ladle it into jars of 250 ml. Fasten the lid and put the glasses upside down on a dishcloth. After 15 – 20 minutes put the jars upright again.
Let the jelly cool down completely, label the jars and store them at a cool, dark place for up to one year.
Membrillo
Shortly put, membrillo is a quince paste. However, this recipe is not known to Spain alone. In France it’s known as cotiqnac, in Germany we call it Quittenkäse (“quince cheese”). The basic principle is always the same: cook quince with sugar, blend it, then let it set and – optionally – dry it. Easy, isn’t it? Let’s break the process down.
Ingredients
1 kg quinces
1 kg sugar
Water
Juice of 1 lemon
Instructions
Rub the fuzz off the quinces and wash them thoroughly.
Quarter the quinces, peel them and remove the cores and any hard or “grainy” parts. You can use undamaged peels and the cores to make quince vinegar. If you want to know more about that, hop over to this article on apple vinegar. The process is the same and you’ll get a marvellous homemade vinegar from scraps!
Weigh the cut quinces before cooking and put them in a pot. Add 1 litre of water and bring it all to a boil. Let it simmer until the quinces are tenderly cooked. This will take 30 – 45 minutes.
Puree the fruit with a kitchen blender until you get a smooth mass. Add the sugar to the quince puree and let it all cook while constantly stirring. The colour will progressively change from yellow to a brownish red. Keep stirring well to prevent burning the paste.
When the dough releases from the sides of the pot, you can ladle it into a square or rectangular form, lined with baking paper.
Let it cool down completely. When it’s firmly set, you can drop it out of the form.
If you want to store it, leave it in that shape and cover it with powdered sugar. Afterwards, wrap it in greaseproof paper and store it in the fridge where it will last for at least 3 months. Alternatively, you can freeze membrillo for up to one year.
Serving suggestion
To serve the membrillo, cut slices of about 1 cm and chop them into small squares. It pairs wonderfully with hard or semi-hard cheese like Manchego or brie. Alternatively, membrillo can also be used as an ingredient in various dishes, such as a filling for tarts and pastries, or as a glaze for meats.
Quince in Syrup
Similar to pears, quinces can be canned in syrup. They pair marvellously with rice pudding or can be used as a filling for cakes and pies. And if you haven’t tried quince crumble yet, I sincerely recommend baking one with these quinces in syrup as a base!
Ingredients:
1 kg firm, ripe quinces
750 g sugar
½ vanilla bean
1 cinnamon stick
Juice of one lemon or
Apple vinegar
1 litre water
Instructions
Sterilize jars and lids by rinsing them with boiling water. Let them dry thoroughly.
Rub the fuzz off the quinces and wash them thoroughly.
Put some water into a bowl and add the lemon juice or apple vinegar
Quarter the quinces, peel them and remove the cores and any hard or “grainy” parts. Either leave the quinces quarters or chop them into cubes of about 2 – 4 cm (1 inch). Put the quinces into the acidified water so that they won’t turn brown.
When all the quinces are done, prepare the syrup:
Put the water and sugar into a pot and stir until the sugar has partly dissolved. Slice the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the vanilla out with a knife. Add the vanilla seeds, the sliced pod and the cinnamon stick to the sugar water.
Bring all to a boil and stir until the sugar has dissolved completely. Let the syrup simmer for 5 minutes.
Now drain the quince (cubes) and add them to the simmering syrup. Bring it to a boil once again and let it simmer until the quinces are tender (about 45 – 60 minutes). They should have turned a beautiful rose-pink colour by now.
Pack the quinces into the sterilized jars.
Remove the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean from the syrup and carefully fill the jars up with syrup, leaving 1 cm (½ inch) of headspace. Immediately seal the jars tightly with the lids.
Let the jars cool down completely and check the lids for tightness.
Quinces in syrup can be stored up to one year in a cool and dark place. Once opened, put the jar in the fridge where it may last up to 1 month.
Serving suggestions
Serve quinces in syrup as a dessert together with whipped cream, vanilla ice cream or yoghurt. It’s also great as a topping to cheesecake, rice pudding or on your morning porridge.
Use the syrup to flavour tea, cocktails or sparkling water.
Quince Compote
This quick and easy recipe is one of my favourite! If you just make one dish with quinces, I recommend this recipe for quince compote.
Ingredients
1 kg quince
Sugar to your taste
¼ l water
1 cinnamon stick
½ tsp ground cinnamon
A knife point of ground anis and cardamom each
Juice of one lemon or Apple vinegar
Instructions
Sterilize jars and lids by rinsing them with boiling water. Let them dry thoroughly.
Rub the fuzz off the quinces and wash them thoroughly.
Put some water into a bowl and add the lemon juice or apple vinegar
Quarter the quinces, peel them and remove the cores and any hard or “grainy” parts. Chop the quarters into cubes of about 2 – 4 cm (1 inch). Put the quince cubes into the acidified water so that they won’t turn brown.
Drain the quinces and put them into a pot. Add the water, sugar and spices and bring all to a boil. Let the quinces simmer until they’re soft (20 – 30 minutes).
You can eat the compote just like that or you put it still hot into the sterilized jars with ½ inch (1 cm) headspace. Secure the lids tightly. To prolong its shelf-life, can the compote for 30 minutes at 80 °C in a water-bath canner.
Thus preserved, quince compote can be stored at a cool and dark place for up to one year.
An alternative preservation method is freezing: fill the cooled compote in portions in plastic bags and put them in the freezer.
If you like, mix the quinces with apples before cooking.
Serving suggestions
Serve quince compote with your morning porridge or granola. It also makes a great topping for waffles and French toast. Or just stir it into yoghurt to make a quick and yummy dessert.
Dried Quince
Who would have thought that you could dry quinces? For a long time, I believed that quinces had to be cooked to become edible but obviously, drying them is also a great method for preserving them. Dried quince are a delicious snack to go but can also be used in stews, cakes or even as tea!
Ingredients
Quinces, as many as you like
water
Juice of one lemon or apple vinegar
Instructions
Rub the fuzz off the quinces and wash them thoroughly.
Put some water into a bowl and add the lemon juice or apple vinegar
Peel the quinces if you like but it’s not essential. Quarter them and remove the cores and any hard or “grainy” parts.
Cut the quinces into slices of about ¼ inch (6mm) and put them into the lemon water to prevent browning.
Drain the quince slices and dab them dry.
You can either dry the quinces in the oven or a dehydrator.
Dehydrator
Clean the dehydrator trays and arrange the quince slices so that they don’t overlap. Start the dehydrator at 60 °C (135 °F) and dry the slices until they’re leathery.
Oven
Line parchment paper on trays or racks and arrange the quince slices so that they don’t overlap.
Set your oven to 60 °C / 140 °F (fan oven) and put the racks or trays with the quinces in. Prop the door slightly open by sticking a wooden spoon into the opening. That way, the condensation water can evaporate.
Dry the quinces between 6 – 12 hours.
Note: it’s impossible to give you an exact drying time as it depends on many factors like air humidity, room temperature, thickness of the slices and the overall moisture content of the fruit.
How to determine whether your quinces are dry enough
First, properly dried quince should be leathery and pliable, not sticky or tacky to the touch. When you cut or squeeze them, there mustn’t be any moisture.
Storage
The most important point is to let the dried quinces cool completely before storing. Once they are cool, put them into airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags. Stored in a cool and dark place they will last for 6 – 12 months if properly dried.
How to use dried quince
The most common (and fastest) use is to snack dried quinces directly as they are. You can also add them to your morning granola or mix it with nuts for a healthy snack mix.
You can, however, use dried quince also in a more versatile way in sweet and savoury dishes:
– Soak them in hot water, tea or wine, for example, until they are soft again (approx.. 15 – 30 minutes). Then use the soaking liquid in recipes as it contains flavour and nutrients.
– Add dried quinces to food like Middle Eastern stews (especially khoresh), Moroccan tagines or Turkish compotes. It’s also a great component of European meat dishes, pairs well with savoury dishes like rice pilaf or can be part of stuffing mixtures.
– Chop your dried quince and add it to your oatmeal or porridge. It adds a delicious flavour (and some nutrients) to yoghurt and breakfast cereals. Also, dried quince can be very well baked into muffins, scones or bread. Use it in fruit cakes or spiced holiday desserts as well as in ice cream or frozen yoghurt.
– Use dried quince for beverages. For example, steep it in hot water for a fruity tea. You may also add it to mulled wine or cider to add a fruity flavour.
Conclusion
The versatility of quinces makes them a rewarding fruit to preserve, whether you’re drawn to the ruby-red glow of poached quinces, the sweet intensity of membrillo, or the delicate flavour of quince jelly. While these ancient fruits require more time and patience than modern quick-preserving methods, the results are truly worth the effort. The transformation of hard, astringent quinces into tender, aromatic preserves is a wonderful tradition that connects us to generations of home preservers before us.
Whether you’re an experienced preserver or trying quince for the first time, remember that the key to success lies in selecting ripe, fragrant fruit and taking the time to prepare it properly. Your reward will be a pantry stocked with preserved quinces to enjoy throughout the year, adding their unique flavour to cheese boards, desserts, or simply spread on fresh bread.
If you are lucky enough to have a quince tree in your yard or know someone with a quince tree who is eager to share their harvest with you, don’t hesitate to try preserving them! Not only will you be participating in an age-old culinary tradition, but you’ll also be creating something truly special that can’t be found on supermarket shelves.
When the leaves start to paint warm hues on the landscape, it’s time for us gardeners to roll up our sleeves for the last time this year and do an autumn garden cleanup.
But what does autumn garden cleanup mean? In short, it’s the process of preparing your garden for winter. Just like preparing a child for bedtime by brushing their teeth, bathing them and putting on their PJs, we clear out dead plants from our garden, manage fallen leaves and protect it from cold weather damage.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the essential steps of autumn garden cleanup, from timing your efforts to sustainable practices that benefit both your garden and local wildlife.
Importance of an autumn garden cleanup
An autumn garden cleanup isn’t just an aesthetic matter but helps our garden to stay healthy for the seasons to come.
It prevents the overwintering of pests and diseases and improves soil health for the next growing season.
Additionally, an autumn cleanup enhances our garden’s appearance during the winter months.
And lastly, it will reduce our workload next spring.
Timing your autumn cleanup
It’s important to choose the right timing for your autumn cleanup. Starting too early may deprive beneficial insects of their habitat while starting too late may make cleaning up more difficult.
Roughly put, an autumn garden cleanup typically takes place between late September and early November. There is, however, no one-size-fits-all date, but it depends on the climate you live in:
Northern regions have earlier frost dates, starting in September to early October, while southern regions have their first frost later in the year, sometimes not before November or even December. In coastal areas, frost also comes late.
Also, growing seasons are shorter in northern areas and longer the nearer you get to the equator.
An additional factor is the altitude of our region: the higher we live, the earlier the first frost may come.
Knowing all that, we will want to start cleaning up our garden early in colder and/or wet climates. The warmer the climate we live in and the drier, the later we may leave the time to clean up.
Keep in mind, however, that these are general guidelines. Local weather patterns, microclimate variations, and specific plant needs should always be considered when determining the optimal timing for autumn garden cleanup.
Signs that indicate it’s time to begin
There are several signs that indicate it’s time to start a garden cleanup:
Nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 10 °C (50 °F).
The first frost date is approaching.
The leaves change colour and start to fall.
Annual plants finish their life cycle.
Perennials begin to die back.
Tasks for autumn garden cleanup
I always recommend a gradual approach over several weeks to cleaning up your garden. It’s way better than trying to do everything at once which will only lead to overwhelm. Besides, a longer cleanup time allows for a longer enjoyment of all those beautiful late-blooming plants.
Vegetable garden
Harvest late vegetables like beetroots, carrots, celery, parsnips and parsley roots.
Before the first frost, protect spinach and winter lettuce like lamb’s lettuce with a gardening mesh from the cold.
Remove late-season weeds before they set seed.
Add compost or well-rotted manure to your beds and work it in.
Plant garlic and winter onions to give them a headstart for next year’s harvest.
If you haven’t sowed cover plants in August or early September, cover the soil with mulch.
Orchard
Harvest the last fruits from the trees to avoid pests and diseases to overwinter and spread.
Remove and destroy any mummified fruits, that is dried, shriveled fruits that are still on the branches. Also, clean up fallen fruits to prevent disease spread.
Check for and remove pest egg masses or cocoons.
Trim dead, diseased or crossing branches from trees and shrubs. For the overall pruning of fruit trees and bushes, late winter is more recommendable.
If your area is prone to winter sunscald, consider whitewashing the tree trunks.
Rake fallen leaves and remove those with a disease. Use the remaining leaves as mulch, either under the trees or in the vegetable garden. You can also create a leave compost. The leaves will rot very fast and the compost is available in spring. Additionally, this compost heap will make a shelter for hedgehogs and insects.
Spread compost or well-rotted manure under fruit trees and shrubs. Make sure to avoid direct contact with the trunks.
Cover the soil beneath the trees and shrubs with mulch and make sure to extend the mulch to the trees’ drip line.
Ornamental garden
Remove spent annual flowers and compost any disease-free plant material.
Cut back the dead foliage of perennials but leave some stalks for wildlife habitat. Note that some plants, like ornamental grasses, can be left standing for winter interest and wildlife habitat as well.
If necessary, divide overcrowded perennials.
Remove any weeds and compost them.
Apply compost to your flower beds.
Spread mulch around perennials and shrubs and give sensitive plants an insulation with extra mulch.
Remember, a thorough fall cleanup doesn’t mean creating a sterile environment. Leaving some areas slightly untamed can provide crucial winter habitats for beneficial insects and wildlife. That way we can strike a balance between garden health and ecological responsibility.
Protecting sensitive plants
Depending on your hardiness zone, some plants require special protection to survive cold winters. In my garden, for example, I need to care especially for Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano, as well as the artichokes in the greenhouse. I mulch the plants with leaves, hay or straw. Then, I put straw onto them so that they are covered with it and fix that with twigs. You can also use protective wrapping made of non-woven material or jute. Do not use plastic.
During winter, especially when it’s wet, you should check the plants for rotting. In that case, remove the mulch and protective layers and replace them with new, dry material.
Tool maintenance
Thoroughly clean all your garden tools by removing any dirt and debris. Soak the tools in warm, soapy water, then scrub the dirt off and rinse. Let them dry well.
If necessary, sharpen your tools with a file or a sharpening stone.
Repair any damage (if possible), tighten loose screws, bolts and nuts and replace any broken or worn parts.
Apply vegetable or machine oil to the metal parts to prevent rust and keep them moving smoothly.
For wooden handles, use linseed oil to protect and nourish the wood
Afterwards, store your tools in a dry space for example a garden shed, a garage or the basement, to prevent moisture build-up.
Conclusion
A garden cleanup in autumn is more than just tidying up: it’s an investment in the health and vitality of our garden.
By removing spent plants, protecting sensitive specimens and using fallen leaves as mulch or compost, we not only prevent pests and diseases from overwintering but also create a fertile environment for the next growing season.
Your garden has given you months of joy and abundance; now is the time to return the favour by preparing it for its winter rest. So, embrace the crisp autumn air, put on your gardening gloves, and tackle your autumn cleanup with enthusiasm.
Happy gardening, and here’s to a productive autumn cleanup and a glorious garden in the year to come!
