When my siblings and I were children, we used to play outside a lot (those were the days), even in winter. Or rather: especially in winter. We had a (small but great) hill in our back garden that used to be frequented by all the children in the neighbourhood as a sledge hill. When, after a long day of bobsleighing, building snowmen and doing snowball fights, we came back into the house, cold and wet with snow, my mum sometimes had made an authentic Bavarian apple strudel (what else?) to warm us up and get us back our strength. It was heaven! Even today, when I eat apple strudel, I remember those days and sometimes I still can smell the snow.
However, apple strudel is not only for winter but it’s a year-round sweet dish or dessert that’s best served with vanilla sauce. Our Bavarian strudel has a slightly thicker dough and is crispier than its Austrian brother which requires pulling the strudel dough very thinly. If you are new to making strudel dough or a bit intimidated by the pulling process, read this article where I’ve described step-by-step how to do it.
But no matter which strudel you prefer, just make sure you bake plenty of it. There won’t be any leftovers. đ
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Sieve the flour into a bowl, add the other ingredients and knead it all into a smooth dough. Brush the dough with oil, put it back in the bowl, cover that with cling film and let it rest for at least 30 minutes (the longer, the more elastic the dough gets).
If you use fresh apples, peel and core them and cut them into thin slices. Put them in a bowl and mix them with lemon juice to prevent them from browning. If you use dry-canned apples, just put them into the bowl.
Roast the nuts in a pan without fat until they are lightly brown. Immediately get them out of the pan and either grind them finely in a kitchen mixer or put them as they are (as chops or flakes) to the apples.
Add the raisins (if you like), sugar and cinnamon and mix it all well.
Dust a kitchen towel with some flour and roll out the strudel dough on it with a rolling pin. Now pull the dough with your hands to the desired size.
Spread the filling evenly across the whole dough but leave out about 2 cm (1 inch) from the edges.
Fold the shorter edges in and roll the strudel with the help of the kitchen towel. Put the strudel either on a baking tray or in a roasting pan that is either covered with a baking tray or greased with butter, lard or tallow.
Brush the strudel with butter and egg yolk and bake it in the preheated oven for 45 minutes at 180 °C (350 °F) (no fan-oven).
Vanilla sauce
Ingredients:
1/2 l milk
1/2 vanilla pod
80 g sugar
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 eggs
Instructions:
Separate the eggs and mix the egg yolks with sugar, corn starch and a bit of the milk to a homogenous mass.
Cut the vanilla pod lengthwise in half, scrape off the seeds and put the seeds and the pod in a pot. Add the milk and put it to the boil.
When the milk wells up, add the egg yolk mixture.
Stir it all well until the sauce thickens. Put the pot off of the plate.
While the sauce cools down, beat the egg whites and fold them into the (still hot) sauce.
Let it cool and stir once more before serving.
Cut this Authentic Bavarian apple strudel into slices and serve them with a huge dollop of vanilla sauce.
Variations
Finely grind the nuts or almonds and add them with 200 g cream cheese to the filling.
Bake the strudel in a deep roasting pan. Bring 120 ml milk, 25 g butter and 20 g sugar to the boil and add the mixture after 20 – 25 minutes of the baking time to the strudel. Let it bake until the strudel has soaked up all the milk (total baking time about 40 – 45 minutes).
If you don’t want to make vanilla sauce, you can serve the strudel with vanilla ice cream as well.
Authentic Bavarian Apple Strudel
Authentic Bavarian apple strudel is not only a main dish for autumn and winter but a year-round dessert that's best served with vanilla sauce.
Sieve the flour into a bowl, add the other ingredients and knead it all into a smooth dough. Brush the dough with oil, put it back in the bowl, cover that with cling film and let it rest for at least 30 minutes (the longer, the more elastic the dough gets).
If you use fresh apples, peel and core them and cut them into thin slices. Put them in a bowl and mix them with lemon juice to prevent them from browning. If you use dry-canned apples, just put them into the bowl.
Roast the nuts in a pan without fat until they are lightly brown. Immediately get them out of the pan and either grind them finely in a kitchen mixer or put them as they are (as chops or flakes) to the apples.
Add the raisins (if you like), sugar and cinnamon and mix it all well.
Dust a kitchen towel with some flour and roll out the strudel dough on it with a rolling pin. Now pull the dough with your hands to the desired size.
Spread the filling evenly across the whole dough but leave out about 2 cm (1 inch) from the edges.
Fold the shorter edges in and roll the strudel with the help of the kitchen towel. Put the strudel either on a baking tray or in a roasting pan that is either covered with a baking tray or greased with butter, lard or tallow.
Brush the strudel with butter and egg yolk and bake it in the preheated oven for 45 minutes at 180 °C (350 °F) (no fan-oven).
Vanilla sauce
While the strudel is baking, prepare the vanilla sauce:
Separate the eggs and mix the egg yolks with sugar, corn starch and a bit of the milk to a homogenous mass.
Cut the vanilla pod lengthwise in half, scrape off the seeds and put the seeds and the pod in a pot. Add the milk and put it to the boil.
When the milk wells up, add the egg yolk mixture.
Stir it all well until the sauce thickens. Put the pot off of the plate.
While the sauce cools down,beat the egg whites and fold them into the (still hot) sauce.
Let it cool and stir once more before serving.
When the apple strudel is baked, dust it with icing sugar, cut it into slices and serve it with a huge dollop of vanilla sauce.
Notes
Variations:
Finely grind the nuts or almonds and add them with 200 g cream cheese to the filling.
Bake the strudel in a deep roasting pan. Bring 120 ml milk, 25 g butter and 20 g sugar to the boil and add the mixture after 20 - 25 minutes of the baking time to the strudel. Let it bake until the strudel has soaked up all the milk (total baking time about 40 - 45 minutes).
If you don't want to make vanilla sauce, you can serve the strudel with vanilla ice cream as well.
When I tried to make my first strudel, it was, well, not a disaster but not a pretty sight either. The dough was too thick in some parts and so thin in others that it tore and had holes in it. It tasted good, however, and that kept me going. Since then I’ve gathered a lot of experience in making strudel dough and pulling it without tearing â although the occasional hole may form.
If you’ve ever wanted to make an apple strudel by yourself but have shrunk back from pulling the strudel dough, here’s your chance to learn how to do it. Some basic ingredients and a few knacks to observe are all you need for a delicious strudel dough for all kinds of fillings!
Strudel basics
What makes a strudel into a really good strudel?
A good strudel has a beautiful colour. It is usually golden yellow, but it can also be almost black, for example, when the dough is coloured with cocoa or sepia.
The outer layers should be crispy and the strudel should look good when cut into pieces.
Nevertheless, the most important thing about a strudel is the filling which may be sweet or savoury.
What kinds of strudel doughs are there and what do you use them for?
The classic strudel dough is a pulled dough which refers to the fact that you have to pull out the dough very thinly before you spread the filling on it. Pulled strudel dough is typically used for apple or vegetable strudel.
Other strudel doughs include for example puff pastry, shortcrust, yeast dough, curd cheese dough and even pancake dough.
In this post, we’re gonna learn to make a classic Bavarian and an Austrian pulled strudel dough.
Basic knowledge about pulled strudel dough
Most beginners are not afraid of the simple kneading of the dough but the “pulling” part. When pulled properly, the dough should be very thin (some say you should be able to read a newspaper through it) and it shouldnât tear.
How do we manage that?
By mixing flour with water. The flour proteins (gluten) build a network with the water and form a rubber-like, elastic mass. This network enables us to pull the dough very thinly without tearing it. The longer the dough can rest, the better its capacity to be pulled. The dough should rest for at least half an hour, but it’s better to let it rest for 1 – 2 hours or even overnight in the fridge.
If you want to use the dough now, it still needs to rest for about 30 minutes but my mum always used to cover it with a hot metal bowl: she poured hot water into a metal bowl that was slightly smaller than the dough bowl opening, drained off the water and dried the bowl. Then she put the bowl upside down over the dough.
Ingredients like oil, vinegar and egg also enhance the dough’s elasticity.
It’s also important to knead the dough thoroughly as kneading intensifies the protein-water-reaction. When you work the dough for some time you’ll realize that it starts to feel elastic, smooth, even and not in the least sticky.
What flour should you use?
As you heard before, the proteins (= gluten) in the flour are important. The higher the protein content, the more elastic the dough.
Worldwide there are different flour types. What we in Germany know as “Type 550” (wheat flour) is the “all-purpose” flour in English-speaking countries. Flours of a higher type like bread flour or high-gluten flour are also suitable. The same goes for spelt flour.
No matter what flour you use, however, it’s important to observe the water-flour ratio. After kneading the dough should be smooth, elastic and a little bit moist but not sticky.
Storage
Strudel dough can be kept in the fridge for about 2 days. It may change its colour to a light grey but that’s quite normal and will lighten when kneaded. Always let the dough reach room temperature before processing it further.
You can even freeze raw strudel dough and let it thaw overnight before processing it.
If you want to freeze a whole (or parts of a) strudel, put the (raw or baked) strudel onto a tray with baking paper and put it into the freezer until it’s completely frozen. Afterwards, put it into a container or freezer bag.
How to fill a strudel
There are two different methods to fill a strudel.
1) Put the filling on the first third of the dough
With this method, it’s important to have a thin strudel dough as you have several layers of it on the outside when it’s baked. If the dough were too thick, the outer layers would be hard and you couldn’t cut them well.
Always leave out the edges which will be folded inwards before rolling the strudel.
This method is recommended.
when you have a relatively moist and hardly compact filling
when the filling contains a good amount of eggs that will rise during baking
when you want to get more crispy strudel dough instead of only one layer
when you want to make sure that the strudel dough won’t tear
when you want to make an elegant strudel that can also be presented standing
when you want to use store-bought dough like filo, yufka or strudel dough. Brush each layer with melted butter before adding another dough leaf (not more than 4 – 6 leaves)
2) Put the filling on the whole dough
For this method, you can use thin and (even better) thicker doughs which stay more compact during baking and don’t tear as easily as thin doughs. If your filling contains eggs or beaten egg whites, the risk of tearing is higher during baking as the filling expands. Just make sure to roll the strudel not too tightly.
Sieve the flour into a bowl, add the other ingredients and knead it all into a smooth dough.
Brush the dough with oil, put it back into the bowl, cover the bowl with cling film and let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes, the longer the better. If you want to use it right away, cover it with a hotly rinsed and dried metal bowl for 30 minutes.
This dough is traditionally pulled very thinly.
Strudel dough – step-by-step instructions
1. Put the flour, egg/vinegar, salt and oil into a bowl and add the lukewarm water
2. Mix the ingredients thoroughly and knead the dough…
3…. until it’s smooth. Form the dough into a ball, brush it with oil, put it back in the bowl that you cover with cling film. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes.
4. Dust a kitchen towel with flour and roll out the dough with a rolling pin.
5. Start pulling the dough carefully at the edges with your fingers.
6. Pull the dough with the back of your hand while holding it with the other hand.
7. Pull the dough thinly into a rectangle. You should see slightly through it.
8. Either spread the filling on one-third of the dough…
9. … or across the whole dough. Leave out the edges.
10. No matter how you placed the filling, fold in the edges.
11. Gently roll the strudel with the help of the towel.
12. Prick the strudel with a pin so that moisture can evaporate during baking.
13. Bake the strudel at 180 °C (350 °F) for 35 – 45 minutes and let it cool down a bit before serving.
Bavarian Strudel Dough
This authentic Bavarian strudel dough recipe creates a delicate, paper-thin pastry that's both elastic and tender. When stretched correctly, this dough becomes nearly transparentâthe hallmark of traditional strudel. Mastering this technique opens the door to countless sweet and savory fillings, from classic apple to savory meat variations.
Put the flour, egg/vinegar, salt and oil into a bowl and add the lukewarm water.
Mix the ingredients thoroughly and knead the dough until it's smooth.
Form the dough into a ball, brush it with oil and cover it with cling film. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes.
Dust a kitchen towel with flour and roll out the dough with a rolling pin.
Start pulling the dough carefully at the edges with your fingers.
Pull the dough with the back of your hand while holding it with the other hand.
Pull the dough thinly into a rectangle. You should see slightly through it.
Either spread the filling on one-third of the dough or across the whole dough. Leave the edges out.
No matter how you placed the filling, fold in the edges.
Gently roll the strudel with the help of the towel.
Prick the strudel with a pin so that moisture can evaporate during baking.
Bake the strudel at 180 °C (350 °F) for 35 - 45 minutes and let it cool down a bit before serving.
Tips and tricks for a perfect strudel
Dust the kitchen towel with flour before you roll the dough out with a rolling pin. Remove rings, bracelets, watches etc., they only cause holes. Always pull with the whole (back of the) hand and work slowly and relaxed.
Before rolling, fold in the short edges. That way no filling can spill.
Make sure that the seams of your strudel are tightly closed so that no filling gets out during baking.
If your filling contains eggs, itâll rise during baking and will need more room. Don’t roll the strudel too tightly.
Prick the strudel with a pin before baking so that moisture can evaporate and the dough won’t tear.
If you brush the strudel with egg yolk before baking, it gets a beautiful colour and becomes crispy.
Brushing with olive oil or butter also makes the strudel crispy.
If the dough has become too hard after baking, cover the strudel with a cloth or brush it lightly with salt or sugar water and let it cool. It becomes softer.
Troubleshooting
The strudel dough is too moist.
The right ratio between flour and water is essential for a strudel dough which should be smooth and elastic, slightly moist but not sticky. If the dough is too moist, knead in some flour, a little at a time.
The strudel dough is too dry.
If the dough tears when kneaded, it usually is too dry. Wet your hands repeatedly when kneading and thus moisten up the dough.
What to do when strudel dough tears
You did everything right but your dough has torn nevertheless? The flour may be the reason. Flour is a natural product and the protein (gluten) content can vary.
However, it’s no drama if your dough has torn. That has happened (and still does) to everyone who has ever done a strudel. There are, however, a few things you can do:
1) Most tears and holes aren’t large. Just press the dough together with your fingers and close the hole.
2) Depending on where the holes have formed, you may not see them when the strudel has been rolled up. “Mending” won’t be necessary then.
3) If there are really many holes (think Swiss cheese) you could put the dough together, knead it through and try to pull it out again. Or you cut off parts of the edges and stick them onto the holes. You could even cut off dough strips and decorate the wrapped-up strudel creatively. Remember, the most important part of the strudel is the filling!
Making strudel dough is very easy and pulling it thinly without tearing is also not rocket science. If you’re a newbie to strudel making, I suggest starting with the Bavarian strudel dough as it needn’t be pulled out too thin and is more forgiving. Make sure that you observe each step and you’ll be on your way to becoming a strudel master before you can say âapple strudelâ!
I donât know about you but once the festive season is over and life starts again in January, my fingers itch to dig into some dirt! Although there are some outdoor garden tasks you should do in January, it’s too cold to get my fingers dirty outside. But I can always do some seed-starting in January and sow vegetables indoors! Of course, itâs way too early to seed-start tomatoes, for example, but there are some plants we can give a head-start by sowing them out in January. Letâs get growing!
Understanding Your Growing Zone and Its Impact on Seed Starting
As you probably know, there are 11 hardiness zones, each divided further into two half-zones. Hardiness zones are set worldwide and classified by the lowest temperatures reached in winter and last frost dates. If you want to know your hardiness zone, hop over to this site, insert your postal code and find out your zone.
The hardiness zone you live in determines to an extent what plants you can cultivate in your region. It also tells you when to plant and seed-start your vegetables which is largely determined by the dates of the last frost.
However, knowing your hardiness zone doesnât take into consideration regional microclimates that mostly affect temperature and humidity. Also, soil quality contributes a lot to the microclimate. Sandy soils, for example, have a lower minimum and higher maximum temperature than loamy soils.
Apart from temperature, the last frost dates are whatâs most important for us vegetable gardeners. When we know how long it takes for a plant to germinate and from sowing to harvest, we can calculate backwards and determine when to seed-start indoors.
Essential Indoor Seed Starting Equipment for January
The basic equipment consists of cultivation trays and/or small pots with transparent covers, alternatively cling film.
Then, you need cultivation soil specially for seed-starting. It contains fewer nutrients and is also good for planting herbs, which also need a few nutrients, in pots.
A small watering can or a plant sprayer helps you to water your seeds carefully without washing them out of the soil.
Plant sticks are great for noting the plants and varieties you sow and sticking them into the tray to mark your plant rows. Donât think you can determine the plants later. Been there, done it, not successful!
A plant lamp is a true game-changer when it comes to indoor seed-starting as light intensity and light hours are usually not sufficient for healthy plant growth. When there is too little light for our seedlings, they become leggy and might even fall over as they try to reach for the light. A plant lamp can be programmed for how long it has to shine (12 – 14 hours/day) and it usually provides just the right light spectrum for plants.
Additionally, you may want to think about buying a heating mat for warmth-loving plants like peppers, tomatoes and eggplants. With a mat like that underneath the seedling trays you can ensure a consistently high temperature.
How to seed-start indoors
Seed-starting indoors is not rocket science but there are a few things to observe:
Rinse the tray or pots with hot water to eliminate bacteria and fungi.
Put the soil into the tray or pots, press it lightly and make small holes where you want the seeds. Put the seeds into the holes, cover them lightly with soil and press the soil gently. Now, water the seeds carefully with a fine-holed watering can.
Put the transparent covers onto the trays. This enhances the temperature and keeps the moisture in. Put the trays in a sunny place at the temperatures required for each plant. If you want to seed-start plants that need relatively high temperatures, like eggplants, peppers, physalis etc., you should consider using a heating mat that you can put under the trays and heat up to the appropriate temperature.
Once the plants grow, check them daily. Keep the cover off for a few minutes to enable ventilation and prevent fungi. Also, check for fungus gnats, those small black flies that come out of the soil and whose larvae eat your plantsâ roots. Sometimes, we bring them into the house with the soil. Put glue traps into your propagation trays and if gnats stick to them, put nematodes, which eat gnat larvae, into water and water your plants with it. Maybe you have to repeat this procedure at a later time.
Vegetables to seed-start in January
#1 Peppers / Chillies
Peppers and chillies need some time to get started. If you sow them too late, theyâll have their fruits late, too, and you risk damaging them by cold temperaturesâeven if you cultivate them in your greenhouse.
Sow the seeds into a tray with cultivation soil and put it in a sunny and warm spot at 25 °C (77 °F). A bright south-facing window, a winter garden or a heatable greenhouse are good places.
#2 Physalis
Seed-start physalis in January by sowing several seeds into one pot. Put the pot in a warm and bright spot. Temperatures about 25 °C (77°F) are ideal. Physalis grow slowly at the beginning and must be kept moist. Separate the plants when they are about three weeks old and plant them in single pots. Either plant physalis out after the last night frosts or separate them again and put them into large pots that you put outside.
Physalis are perennials and can be kept indoors during winter.
#3 Winter lettuce
Seed-start winter lettuce like âBaqieuâ to plant it out later in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. That way youâll have an early lettuce harvest.
Sow the seeds into a tray with the appropriate soil and press it lightly. Lettuce only germinates in light so donât cover the seeds with soil. Temperatures mustnât be as high as for peppers or physalis. 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F) are ideal. When the plants are large enough, separate them and set them into single pots.
#4 Sweet potatoes
Cut sweet potatoes in halves and let the cutting areas dry for a few hours. Then, put the halves with the cut end facing down into a pot or balcony box with soil. Place the pot or box in a warm and sunny place. After some time, shoots will grow out of the sweet potatoes which weâll cut off later and put into water for building roots.
#5 Ginger / Turmeric
Ginger and turmeric build rhizomes instead of deep roots and thus are best grown in flat pots. Put a rhizome with âeyesâ into a tray or pot and cover it with soil so that two-thirds of the ginger or turmeric is in the soil and one-third is still above.
#6 Eggplants
Like peppers and physalis, eggplants like it warm and thrive best at temperatures of 25 °C (77 °F). Seed-start eggplants at the end of January by sowing seeds into a tray. Later, when they are large enough transplant each plant into a single pot. Always make sure that they are in a warm and sunny place.
#7 Cabbage
Cabbage is usually harvested in autumn, but there are varieties for a summer harvest and those should be seed-started now. As usual, sow the seeds in a tray and separate them later when theyâve grown four seed leaves.
Cabbage doesnât need high temperatures like peppers and eggplants. On the contrary, itâs perfectly content with temperatures of 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F).
When we plant out these cabbage varieties after the last day frosts, we can harvest the plants already in July.
#8 Savoy cabbage
As with cabbage, there are summer varieties that should be seed-started at the end of January. Savoy cabbage germinates already at temperatures of only 3 °C (38 °F). Once they have four seed leaves, separate the young savoy cabbages and plant them into single pots. Now put them in a bright place at about 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F) and plant them outdoors end of March/beginning of April.
Summer varieties of savoy cabbage can be harvested in July and August.
#9 Early cauliflower
Seed-start early cauliflower varieties in January by sowing them into trays and putting them in a place with 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F). Separate them when they have grown four seed leaves and plant them into single pots. Plant them into an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame mid to end of March. If you have them in the greenhouse, you can plant tomatoes in between later. By the time they need more space, the cauliflower is already harvested.
#10 Kohlrabi
Kohlrabi can also be seed-started now for an early harvest in the cold frame or greenhouse. Indoors they need temperatures about 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F) and should be separated once theyâve developed four seed leaves. Plant them out into the cold frame or greenhouse end of February/beginning of March for an early harvest.
#11 Onions
Sowing onions may be more time-consuming than planting the bulbs but it shows advantages like healthier growth, more varieties and better storage capability. And itâs cheaper. Seed-start onions in January to ensure that you can harvest them before the first frost in autumn. Put the seeds into a tray or small single pots and place them in a bright spot of about 16 â 18 °C (60 â 65 °F) or colder (not under 10 °C / 50 °F). At the end of March/beginning of April, you can plant them outdoors.
#11 Summer leek
Summer leek, thatâs harvested in July / August must be seed-started in January. You can either sow the seeds in trays and separate them later or you sow them into small single pots. Plant the leek outdoors when itâs about as thick as a pencil. To protect it from night frosts, however, you should cover it then with a frost fleece.
Summary
Starting seeds in January sets you up for a productive growing season ahead. Remember to choose varieties suited to your zone and provide proper growing conditions for strong, healthy seedlings. When you observe the simple rules for seed-starting vegetables indoors (see above), you’ll give your plants a good head-start and have a great harvest later that season.
Ready to get growing? Grab your seed packets and let’s make this your best gardening year yet!
Although our gardens are sleeping right now, doesnât mean that we gardeners have nothing to do! Admittedly, it wonât be so much OUTDOOR tasks like weeding and planting but more INDOOR chores like maintenance and planning. But these are not the only garden tasks in January. Below, Iâve listed several jobs you should think about.
#1: Dreaming up your garden in January
If youâre new to gardening and just starti#ng, this may seem a bit overwhelming but donât worry, Iâve got you covered! Whether you have a large backyard you want to turn into a veggie paradise or just a patio or balcony with a few containers to cultivate in, planning is always the first step. This is also valid if you have already a garden or if you want to expand. Letâs dive in and start planning our dream garden step by step.
Drawing
Grab a piece of square paper and draw the patches you have or want to have. Just donât get overambitious, especially as a beginner. Itâs best to start with one or two patches about 1,2 x 1,2 metres (3.3 x 3.3 feet).
Imagine what youâd want your garden to look like. Do you want a cottage garden with flower borders and herbs? Will you start with raised beds? Do you want to have a greenhouse and/or cold frames? Or is a permaculture garden what youâd like? Go crazy here and think big, the skyâs the limit. Then, adjust to what you have and what is possible (now). Go step by step, thereâs almost always room for expansion.
Wishlist
The next step is to make a wish list of all the vegetables youâll want to grow. Bear in mind what you and your family like. Itâs no use to grow spinach if you loathe it.
Maybe you want to try new varieties; put them on your list.
Adjust this list to your available space and your experience. If youâre a garden greenhorn, start with these easy vegetables for beginners. With more experience, you can try other, more complicated crops.
Seeds
When you know which vegetables you want to grow, check your seeds if you have some already, browse seed catalogues (my favourite garden task in January!) and order what you need. January is a good time for seed ordering, later some may be sold out.
Planting plan
This can be tricky, especially if you are a first-time gardener, but with some basic knowledge, youâll have it up in no time.
If you want to learn more about starting a vegetable garden, this beginner’s guide will tell you everything you need to now on that topic.
#2 Seed checking
If you have seeds left from the last seasons, especially when they are more than two years old, youâll want to check if they are still capable of germination. Some plants like parsnips and celery can be a bit finicky when it comes to germinating.
To find out if theyâre still good, put some seeds between moist kitchen paper and observe for a few days if they germinate.
#3 Create new patches
January is a good time to build new patches. Donât worry, you wonât have to dig up your garden (which would be especially tedious with frozen ground). My favourite method of building new patches only requires cardboard and good planting soil or compost. Peel off any plastic from the cardboard and lay it flat on the ground where you want to have the patch. Distribute well-rotted compost or planting soil about 10 â 15 cm (4 â 6 inches) on it. Done! If you want to learn more about this easy no-dig method, hop over to this article.
#4 Prepare your indoor growing station
Another garden task in January is cleaning your growing stations with hot water so that all pathogens and pests are killed before we start to sow.
Also, sterilize your growing soil by baking it at 150 °C (300 °F) for 30 minutes. This will kill for example fungus gnats that can be a real danger for seedlings.
If you donât have any planting lights already, consider buying some. Theyâre a real game changer when it comes to indoor sowing as the natural light usually isnât sufficient to help develop healthy plants.
#5 Seed-starting
Although it may seem a bit early, you can already start to sow indoors. Some vegetables, for example chillies and peppers, are real sloths when it comes to growth. To give them enough time to become large enough to plant them out eventually, sow them indoors at the end of January. Cabbage, cauliflower, leeks and onions can also be sowed indoors at the end of the month. Wanna read more about what vegetables you can seed-start in January? Hop over here!
#6 Protect your plants
Whenever you’re out in winter, you’re happy for any frost protection you can get. The same goes for our plants: they are freezing. So, one of our garden tasks in January is covering them with frost protection fleece that not only protects them from the cold but also from drying winds.
Still got any root crops in the ground? Cover them with an extra layer of mulch to protect them from the freezing weather.
You can also use the branches of your Christmas tree to cover your root crops or herbs BUT ONLY if hasnât been treated with pesticides! We donât want that in our gardens, do we? So, do your garden â and yourself â a favour and make sure that your Christmas tree is organic before using it to cover your plants.
#7 Harvesting
If youâve ever harvested frozen vegetables in winter, youâll know that for example lettuce becomes soft and slimy once it has thawed. The reason for that is that the plant you harvested canât recover from the frost once itâs separated from its roots. Either harvest them when they are wrapped up in a fleece for example (which prevents freezing) or when itâs mild enough that they arenât frozen.
#8 Watering
This may sound weird, but your plants can suffer from dryness even in winter, especially when itâs sunny and windy. This phenomenon is called frost draught.
When the ground is frozen, your plants canât take up water but they still evaporate moisture through their leaves, especially on sunny and/or windy days.
To protect your plants from drying out, you have to water them. This is best done in the mornings when temperatures will still rise and the plants will get a chance to snatch up the water during the day.
#9 Pruning
January is still a good time to prune your fruit trees and berry shrubs. The best time to do that is while the plants are still dormant. If you havenât done so earlier (ahm… yes: guilty), cut out any old growth from your fruit trees, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, black and red currants and gooseberries to maintain their productivity in the upcoming season.
#10 Tool inventory and maintenance
Check if youâve everything ready for the upcoming season:
Do you have enough frost protection fleece? Winter may go on a bit longer and youâll want some spare fleece at hand, just in case.
Also, youâll need pest protection nets for spring and summer. Companion planting, which means planting vegetables together that support and protect each other, is a great way to keep pests and diseases at bay. If you want to learn more about some foolproof pairs for your vegetable garden, hop over here. Yet, companion planting is no guarantee that there wonât be any pests. If you want to have your harvest for yourself then, and donât want to share it with maggots, store up on protection nets.
Snails are also always a problem in my garden, especially last year when it was exceptionally wet. If you have the same problem, make sure you have enough barriers like snail collars and snail fences to keep them off your vegetables.
If you havenât done it already, clean up your garden tools by scraping off the dirt and washing them thoroughly. Afterwards, itâs good to sharpen them, if necessary, and oil them. If somethingâs broken, repair it.
#11 Build what you need (and want)
The garden is still dormant so why not head into your workshop and build what youâd like to have? Whether it be a trellis, raised beds, a scarecrow or an insect hotel, now is a good time to put your designs into reality.
#12 Support the animals
Our feathery friends will be grateful for food, so hang up bird feeders and fill them with appropriate food for wild birds.
If you have squirrels in your garden, you can also hang a squirrel feeder with balanced squirrel food into one of your trees. Install the feeder far from the house and at least 2 metres (6,5 feet)
Leave dead plant stems and fallen leaves on the ground as they offer hedgehogs and insects a great winter home. You can clean it all up later in spring when theyâve woken up from hibernation.
You see, even if almost nothingâs growing outside right now, there are still some garden tasks in January that we can do. And although the tasks seem different, they can be mostly summed up as: Preparation. No matter if itâs planning new patches and crops, maintaining and repairing tools, building new things or seed-starting indoors, these are all steps that lead to the next seasonâs garden. Have fun and enjoy the (relative) calm. Weâll soon be digging in the soil again!
When my youngest son was in 7th grade, his school grades suddenly worsened and he became quieter and more introverted. At first, I thought it was probably normal, what with puberty and all, but one day he told me that he âdidnât get along withâ (read: was bullied by) the boy sitting next to him. The moment he could change seats and get away from the bully, his grades got better and he was his usual easy-going self again. What applies to people is even more valid for plants. Some thrive in each other’s vicinity while others just canât stand one other. The concept of considering these veggie loves when planning a garden is called Companion Planting.
But who to pair and who to separate? Whether you want to start gardening on a tiny balcony or in a large backyard, Iâm about to introduce you to some plant partnerships that are practically guaranteed to work out. Better still, these arenât high-maintenance vegetables but easy-going duos thatâll make you soon famous for your green thumb. I know, companion planting can feel overwhelming – even if you have already some experience – but I’ve discovered some foolproof combinations that just work!
Before we grab our garden gloves and head out, though, letâs see what companion planting is and why it works.
What is companion planting?
Companion planting is a gardening technique where different plant species are grown near each other for mutual benefit.
Think of it as playdates in your garden. Just like people, plants can be great friends who help and support each other in all sorts of ways.
Some share nutrients that they gather with their neighbours, others are great at sharing space, like offering a bit of shade on hot days or becoming a live trellis their friends can climb.
Others are the bodyguards of the patch and keep pests and diseases away from their pals. can be paired to help each other by repelling pests, attracting beneficial insects, providing nutrients, offering physical support, or creating beneficial growing conditions like shade or ground cover.
Getting Started: Essential Tips for Success
Pairing great vegetable couples alone, however, will not make your garden a success. There are a few preparations you have to take and recommendations you should observe.
Soil type
First of all, get to know your gardenâs soil type and make arrangements to adjust it if necessary. Donât worry, itâs easier than it sounds and you can look at how to do it here.
Soil preparation
Loosen the soil on your patch with a hoe, remove all the debris and weeds and rake it even. Work in some compost and/or well-matured manure to enhance the soils nutrient content. If you start from scratch, Iâll show you here the easiest way to build a new garden patch without digging.
If you plant in containers, make sure you use high-quality planting soil thatâs suitable for vegetables.
Spacing guidelines
Itâs tempting to plant too close and even seasoned gardeners make that mistake from time to time (yep, that would be me). But: your vegetables wonât thrive when they havenât got enough space. At the back of your seed packages is usually a space guideline which you should observe!
Timing
Depending on your growing zone, planting and sowing can differ by weeks. The first step is to find out your growing zone (for example here) and then to watch nature and observe the weather forecast. You should realize when day frosts are over and when the last night frosts will happen.
Basic tools
Apart from soil, you need a few tools for gardening. A large garden fork is great for digging in compost and manure if you have patches. A hand trowel and hand cultivator are essential for both container and patch gardening.
A rake (large or hand-sized) helps you to get the soil even.
Buy a good watering can for watering specific plants and seedlings. If you use a hose, make sure it has an adjustable nozzle.
For your own protection, youâll need gardening gloves and maybe a knee pad.
If you want to cultivate a backyard garden, a wheelbarrow is a useful investment for carrying compost, manure or other heavy things around. Additionally, a bucket comes in handy for smaller amounts of soil or weeds.
The 10 Surefire Companion Planting Pairs
Now that we know how companion planting works and how to prepare our beds and containers, Here are some foolproof companion planting pairs that are guaranteed to be a success! Iâll show you how they benefit from each other and give you tips for growing.
No 1: Tomatoes and Basil
Pest control: Basil can prevent pests like spider mites, white flies or aphids and thus protect tomato plants from them. The basilâs essential oils either confuse or repel these pests. On the other side, basil attracts ladybirds, the natural antagonist of for example aphids.
Normally, you harvest basil before it blooms, but as we want to attract beneficial insects, let at least some blossoms start to bloom. (Not sure how you can preserve herbs? Take a look over here.)
Use of space: Tomatoes grow high while basil stays relatively short. In combining these two, you can use your garden space optimally while at the same time making sure that the tomatoes can shadow the sensitive basil and thus protect it from too much direct sunlight which would burn its leaves.
Ground cover: On the other side, basil covers the soil and prevents evaporation. This leads to constantly moist soil which is beneficial for the tomatoes.
Soil improvement: Basil loosens the soil with its shallow and well-branched roots and enables oxygen to get into the soil. Its structure supports the creation of a good microclimate around the tomatoes, strengthening their vitality and enhancing the harvest
Taste enhancement: Many gardeners have experienced that basil enhances the taste of tomatoes â not only on the plate but also when planted together.
Planting and growing tips
You can start growing tomatoes and basil indoors by sowing them about 6 weeks before you can plant them out which is after the last night frosts. When this will be depends on the zone you live in. (Not sure what your growing zone is? This page will help you find out). If you have a greenhouse, you can plant them out a few weeks earlier.
Basil grows best in a bit of shadow which the tomatoes easily provide. Both plants like it warm and protected from wind and rain.
Tomato plants need about 60 cm (25 inches) distance from each other, bush varieties about 40 cm (15 inches). Plant the basil between or around the tomatoes but not too close so that the leaves of both plants wonât touch.
If you plant in containers make sure they are large enough. A diameter of 30 cm (12 inches) is the minimum.
No 2: Carrots and Onions
Pest control: Carrots keep the onion fly away while onions deter the carrot fly. Both plants absorb a scent that repels the pests.
Use of space: As carrots have deep roots and onions shallow ones, the combination of both guarantees an optimal use of gardening space. Besides, both plants get their water and nutrients from different zones of the soil and donât compete.
Planting and growing tips
Loosen the soil with a digging fork before you sow and plant. This will make sure that the carrots can grow easily into the depth and build long straight roots.
Sow carrots and plant onions after the last day frosts and when the soil has warmed up. In my zone 7b this is around the beginning to mid-April. As carrots may need it a bit warmer, you can also plant the onions first and sow the carrots later when the soil has turned warmer. Make sure to keep enough space between the onion rows, so that thereâs plenty of room for the carrots.
Carrots take their time to grow leaves which makes it hard to weed during the first weeks. To make it easier, mark the rows of carrots when you sow, either with a plant sticker or by sowing radishes between the carrots. They grow very fast and indicate soon where the rows are.
No 3:Â Cucumbers and Nasturtiums
Pest control: Nasturtiums attract pests like aphids, white flies and squash bugs, thus acting like a trap and keeping the cucumbers relatively pest-free. In particular, nasturtium confuses and deters cucumber beetles, which are a major pest for cucumber plants. Additionally, nasturtium help deter soil nematodes.
With their beautiful flowers nasturtium attracts bees, butterflies and other pollinators. This can lead to higher fruit yield and a better harvest.
Use of space: Cucumbers are known to be avid climbers and grow on trellises. As nasturtiums grow low, they can be cultivated between the cucumber plants to optimally use the space.
Ground cover: Nasturtiums cover the ground between the cucumbers and shadow their roots. That way, they also prevent evaporation and help retain moisture in the soil. As cucumbers like moist soil, this is a great combination. Additionally, it prevents weed growth and keeps the soil cool.
Soil improvement: Nasturtiums also loosen the soil due to their root structure and that way enable oxygen to reach the cucumbersâ roots.
Taste enhancement: Nasturtium is said to improve the taste of cucumbers.
Edible flower bonus: If all that hasnât convinced you, this is the absolute bonus: nasturtium not only looks pretty, its flowers (and leaves) are also edible and pimp every salad or the occasional pasta dish. If thatâs no reason to grow nasturtium, I donât know what is.
Planting and growing tips
Pre-cultivate cucumbers and nasturtium indoors by sowing them about 4 â 6 weeks before the last night frosts. Both like it warm and sunny and should not be planted out before itâs really warm enough.
No 4: Lettuce and Marigolds (tagetes)
Pest protection: Marigolds are the SWAT team of pest protectors! Their strong sent, for example, repels aphids while secretions of their roots kill soil nematodes. At the same time, they deter leaf-eating pests from the salad and build a barrier against common garden pests like snails. If thatâs not high-level natural pest control, I donât know what is!
Soil improvement: Marigolds improve the soil structure with their robust root system which enables oxygen to get into the soil where itâs also beneficial for the lettuce.
It also provides organic material, for example when spent blooms fall off and decompose.
Ground cover: Both plants provide good ground cover for each other which makes the soil stay moist but also prevents weeds from growing.
Edible flower bonus: Some marigold varieties have edible flowers, for example tagetes lemmonii, tenuifolia and minuta
Planting and growing tips
The best way to plant marigolds and lettuce together is to cultivate a marigold border around salad patches. Plant the marigolds with a distance of 20 â 30 cm (8 â 12 inches). If you have a large lettuce patch, plant the occasional marigold between the lettuce.
No 5:Â Beans, Corn and Pumpkin
The trio of beans, corn and pumpkin is called the âThree Sistersâ, a famous companion planting scheme from native Americans. They are cultivated together for the following benefits:
Structural support: Beans in this case means climbing beans. The corn stems provide a sturdy structure for the beans to climb up.
Use of space: Corn and beans grow high while pumpkin spreads along the ground which makes that the perfect example of an optimal use of space.
Soil improvement: Beans are nitrogen-collectors which means that they gather nitrogen from the air and store it in their roots where the corn and pumpkin benefit from it. (Read more about plant nutrients here.) When the beans are harvested, cut them off above the ground and leave the roots there. That way, the nitrogen stays in the soil.
Ground cover: The spreading pumpkin provides a great ground cover, thus retaining moisture and preventing weeds from growing.
Planting and growing tips
Make sure to choose the right varieties of beans and corn. Use mid to low-growing beans and strong-growing corn, otherwise, the beans will crush the corn stems.
It has also proven advantageous to choose coloured beans which makes it simpler to find them later in the thicket of the patch.
Sow corn about two weeks before the last night frosts (in zone 7b thatâs the beginning of May) with a distance of 40 cm (16 inches) between plants and 60 â 80 cm (24 â 32 inches) between rows. Sow up to 3 beans around each corn and plant pumpkin between the rows with a distance of 2 m (6.5 feet) between the pumpkin plants.
You can even cultivate the âThree Sistersâ small-scale in a container. Choose one with a diameter of at least 50 cm (20 inches), plant low-growing corn in the middle, 3 â 4 bush (!) beans at the container edge and between corn and beans one small pumpkin variety.
No 6: Radishes and Spinach
Pest control: Spinachâs strong scent can help repel certain insects, while radishes deter leave-eating pests.
Use of space: Radishes have deep roots and spinach develops shallow roots. That, in addition to them having similar requests regarding watering, makes those two vegetables a great example of how to use space efficiently.
Ground cover: Spinach covers the ground well with its large leaves and thus keeps the soil moist and prevents weeds.
Soil improvement: Furthermore, radishes help loosen the soil with their deep roots and thus support the more complex root system of spinach.
Planting and growing tips
Both, radishes and spinach can be sowed throughout the growth season, just make sure to pick the right varieties. You can start sowing spinach and radishes early in the year, in fact, after the last day frosts (here around thatâs beginning to mid-April). Due to their relatively short growing time, both can be used as a gap filler or preparatory cultivation for plants that take a longer time to grow. There are also summer varieties which tolerate heat and, when sown every 6 â 8 weeks, ensure a continuous harvest from spring to autumn.
Radishes can be harvested after 3 â 5 weeks so that they wonât compete with spinach for nutrients.
No 7:Â Peppers and Oregano
Pest control: Oregano releases a scent that repels certain pests like aphids, spider mites and other pepper-loving bugs. The scent can be so strong that it covers up the peppersâ scent so that pests canât detect them.
Ground cover: Oregano, planted between and around peppers is a great ground cover which suppresses weeds and retains moisture in the soil. It also keeps the soilâs temperature stable and reduces soil splashing onto the pepper leaves during rain or watering, which minimises the risk of soil-borne diseases.
Flavour enhancement: Some gardeners report that oregano planted with peppers enhances their flavour. I personally havenât had the same experience but maybe my taste buds arenât refined enough đ. Try it out and let me know what you think!
Planting and growing tips
Peppers and oregano enjoy the same sunny conditions and well-drained soil. But while peppers grow fast and vertical, oregano grows slower and stays more compact, thus building a good ground cover (see above). Both plants have different root depths and get their nutrients and water from different soil zones which means they donât compete.
No 8: Zucchini and Nasturtiums
Zucchini and cucumbers are both members of the gourd family or Cucurbitaceae. Knowing that, itâs no wonder that zucchini, like cucumbers, pair well with nasturtiums.
Pest control: As described above, nasturtiums attract pests like aphids, white flies and squash bugs, keeping zucchini pest-free. Additionally, nasturtium helps deter soil nematodes.
Pollination benefits: Nasturtium with its large, beautiful flowers attracts bees, butterflies and other pollinators. This can lead to higher fruit yield and a better harvest.
Ground cover: Most gardeners know zucchini only as growing spaciously on the ground, but if you grow them vertically by binding them to a stick (yes, just like tomatoes), you not only save space but also keep the zucchini healthier. Nasturtium then works as a ground cover that keeps the soil moist and prevents weeds.
Planting and growing tips
Pre-cultivate zucchini and nasturtium indoors by sowing them about 4 â 6 weeks before the last night frosts. Both like it warm and sunny and should not be planted out before itâs really warm enough.
No 9: Peas and Carrots
Use of space: The carrot tops are relatively sparse, allowing the pea vines to grow upwards. This vertical growth pattern allows you to grow more food in a smaller space.
Soil improvement: Peas (like beans) are nitrogen collectors; that means they gather nitrogen out of the air and store it in their roots where itâs partially available for the carrots. When the peas are harvested, cut them off shortly above the ground and leave their roots in the soil. That way, the nitrogen stored in their roots enhances the soil.
Peas have shallow roots whereas carrots develop deep taproots that go well into the ground. That way, both plants get their water and nutrients from different soil zones and donât compete with one another.
Planting and growing tips
Peas are cool-season crops that can be planted early and carrots can either be sowed at the same time or slightly afterwards. By the time the carrots need more space for their roots, the peas will most likely be harvested and can be cut off. If you leave their roots in the ground, the carrots can access the nitrogen thatâs stored in there.
No 10: Cabbage and Dill
Pest control: The strong scent that we love about dill, deters pests like cabbage white butterfly and aphids. Additionally, dill attracts insects like ladybugs, wasps and hoverflies that prey on cabbage pests.
Use of space: Dill grows upright and airy whereas cabbage shows a spreading form. Also, the root systems of those two donât compete regarding water and nutrients as dill has shallow roots and cabbage has deep roots. That way, both plants can be cultivated well together, using garden space optimally.
Flavour enhancement: Some gardenerâs say they perceive a flavour enhancement in cabbage when planted together with dill. Iâd say, itâs worth a try!
Planting and growing tips
Both plants can be grown during the same seasons but dill grows a good deal faster than cabbage which allows for continuous garden use. When dill goes to seed, it can self-sow for the next season while cabbage continues growing.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Companion planting is a great method to enhance your gardenâs productivity but there are still some rules to observe. Here are some of the mistakes you should avoid:
Overcrowding
Even seasoned gardeners sometimes make this common mistake: planting companions too close together. Please bear in mind that all plants need their proper space for root growth and air circulation. By planting too close, you increase the risk of diseases and competition for resources instead of diminishing them.
Incompatible combinations
Make sure you know which plants get along well and which donât. As described above, some plants inhibit growth in other plants. When you plant antagonists together, you neednât wonder why your veggies donât thrive.
Timing errors
Consider how long different vegetables need to be harvested. Some have a very short cultivation time (for example radishes), others are practically the whole season on the patch (cabbage). Use short-seasoned plants to fill the space until those who stay longer need more room.
However, itâs no good to combine vegetables with different plant windows. None of them will thrive.
Sunlight requirements
Sun lovers will become straggly in the shadow and the sun sensitives will get sunburnt in the blazing sun. Always plant veggies with similar sunlight requirements together. Also, take into consideration the shadow plants will cast on each other once they reach their final height.
Companion Planting – It’s worth the effort!
Companion planting can be a bit intimidating at first but you can make so much more of your patch if you bear in mind which pairs are love matches and which want to go at each otherâs throats.
Whether you’re teaming up tomatoes and basil or letting beans and corn support each other, these combinations are practically guaranteed to succeed. Think of it as playing cupid with veggies â and these couples are definitely a match!
Still overwhelmed? Thereâs no need to put all the above into practice at once. Start slow and just try one or two of these tried-and-true pairs, watch them thrive together and before you know it, youâll also be infected with the âgarden bugâ and want to try out more!
Now get out there, grab your garden gloves and a shovel and let these plant pals work their magic in your garden!đ±
