August brings us an abundance of harvest. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, beans, cauliflower, broccoli and many fruits are ripe now and not only want to be harvested but also preserved for the cold winter months. With all the garden tasks we have to do in August and the work in the kitchen, we can easily forget that what we sow and plant in August lays the foundation for our winter harvest. Preserved food is great, but having fresh produce even when the earth is covered in snow is even better!
What we began in July, we can continue in August: late summer sowing and planting a mixture of cool-season and fast-growing varieties that keep our garden patches covered and are the preparation for a productive garden even in autumn and winter.
While February and March are all about seed-starting indoors, August marks a turning point in the gardening year. By now, most vegetables are best sown directly into the soil, while the seedlings we started in July are ready to move into their final place in the garden.
Quick Reference: What to Sow and Plant in August
Here’s a cheat sheet of what you can sow and plant in August:
Direct-sow outdoors
Plant outdoors
Lamb’s lettuce
Broccoli
Winter lettuce
Kale
Spinach
Fennel
Radishes
Kohlrabi
Rocket lettuce
Spring onions
Purslane
Broad beans
Green manure, e.g. phacelia, buckwheat, winter peas and others
🌱 Prefer a printable version?
Download the printable August Garden Checklist & Planting Guide to keep beside you while you’re working outdoors.
Vegetables to sow in August directly outdoors
Broad Beans
While it’s too late in August to sow bush and runner beans (they need 8 – 10 weeks to mature), it’s the perfect time to sow broad beans. In fact, sowing them now will give them a head start, and we can harvest them earlier next year.
Prepare the garden patch by weeding it thoroughly and raking it smooth. Then sow the broad beans with a distance of 8 – 10 cm (3 – 4 inches) between plants and about 60 cm (2 feet) between rows. This may sound like a lot, but next May you can sow corn between the broad bean rows, like I did this season. The broad beans had largely finished by then, giving the young corn plenty of light and space.
Spinach
Spinach is always a good gap filler. It grows relatively fast, and it tastes delicious. That said, sow spinach now either in rows or broadcast and harvest as much as you can before the first frost. Spinach germinates best once temperatures begin to cool, making late August one of the best sowing times of the year.
Rocket salad
Now is the last chance this season to sow rocket salad. It’ll grow quickly and doesn’t require much. Just sow it, watch it grow quickly, harvest the leaves and – if it’s still time – let a few plants flower if you’d like it to self-seed naturally. That way, it will spread across your garden.
Radishes
Radishes are one of the quickest vegetables, as they need only about 30 days from sowing to harvest. It’s still advisable to choose bolt-resistant varieties now. August may be late summer, but it can still be hot.
Radishes are great for filling empty spaces in the vegetable patch quickly, and they’re a wonderful addition to a salad or make a great staple as fermented radishes.
If I had to choose only one vegetable for winter harvest, I’d take lamb’s lettuce. It’s my favourite winter salad. The rich green leaves, their velvety texture and the wonderful taste of nuts make for a perfect winter side or even main dish.
As lamb’s lettuce belongs to the valerian family, so it fits easily into almost any crop rotation.
Sow lamb’s lettuce in late August when temperatures have dropped. Either sow it in rows or just broadcast wherever there’s a gap in the patches, and look forward to all those delicious bowls of winter salad!
Cold-hardy lettuce
Lamb’s lettuce isn’t the only lettuce we can sow now. In fact, all cold-hardy varieties like romana, winter head lettuce or radicchio can be sown now. With a bit of planning, we can feast on fresh salad throughout the whole winter.
One of my favourite varieties that I sow every year is “Rouge d’Hiver”, but I also like “Bacquieu”.
Green manure
My garden is about 100 square metres (1076 square feet), 130 (1400) if I count the greenhouse as well. I don’t want to cultivate vegetables on the whole area during winter. Yet, I want the soil covered. Partly, I layer it thickly with mulch, and partly I cover it with green manure.
There are different plants you can use as cover crops now, for example, phacelia, buckwheat or winter peas. The plants will reach a good height before the first frost strikes, and sometimes even flower, but, fortunately, won’t have enough time to produce seeds. That way, you won’t have to worry about green manure plants self-sowing in your garden the next season.
Vegetables to Plant Outdoors in August
All vegetables we seed-started indoors or in the greenhouse in July should be planted out now. Remember to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them. For that purpose, put them outside for 2 – 3 hours a day and gradually increase the time over the course of a week. That way, they get used to the conditions outside and get well prepared for your garden.
Brassica
Brassica seedlings we started indoors earlier, such as broccoli, kale, or kohlrabi, should now be planted outdoors in August.
Just make sure you have them properly hardened off, and transplant them on a cloudy day so they don’t get too stressed.
Fennel
Last chance in August to plant the fennel you may have seed-started earlier in July. It should have a good height by now and isn’t prone to as many pests and diseases as spring-started plants. I don’t speak from experience here, as I haven’t had any luck with fennel so far. This year, though, I’ve tried planting it in autumn (that is: in August). I’ll keep you updated on the progress.
Spring onions
If you’ve grown spring onions from seeds (or bought a bunch at the nursery), August is the perfect time to plant them. In spring (as the name indicates), we can harvest the fresh green leaves and chop them into salads, soups or stews.
What Not to Sow in August
Although August is surprisingly productive, some vegetables simply don’t have enough time left to mature before autumn.
Avoid sowing:
Bush beans
Runner beans
Sweet corn
Pumpkins
Winter squash
Zucchini
Cucumbers
Melons
Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplants
Most of these warm-season vegetables need eight to twelve weeks of warm weather. By the time they begin flowering, temperatures and daylight are already declining.
If you’d still like to use the empty space, sow spinach, lamb’s lettuce, rocket or green manure instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still sow carrots in August?
Yes, but you must choose a late variety that can stand frost.
Can I grow vegetables in August if I missed spring sowing?
Yes, but as it’s already late in the season, choose cold-hardy vegetables like winter lettuce, spinach and radishes. August is a good month to plant and sow for winter harvest.
Should I seed-start indoors in August?
No, it’s too late by now. The plants wouldn’t ripen. Instead, sow directly into the patches or plant what you’ve seed-started earlier.
How late can I sow spinach?
Spinach can usually be sown until early September in mild climates. Late sowings often overwinter and produce an early spring harvest.
Can I sow lettuce in August?
Yes. Choose cold-hardy varieties that tolerate cool temperatures, such as winter lettuce or romaine types.
Which vegetables can survive winter?
Lamb’s lettuce, spinach, kale and many winter lettuces tolerate frost well and continue growing whenever temperatures rise above freezing.
Should I fertilise vegetables planted in August?
Usually not heavily. Too much nitrogen encourages soft growth that is more susceptible to frost. Well-prepared soil and mature compost are usually enough.
Can I still plant herbs in August?
Many perennial herbs can still be planted early in the month, but annual herbs like basil are nearing the end of their season.
Water your plants deeply during dry spells. Although August borders on autumn, it can still be rather hot, at least here in Bavaria. If it hasn’t rained for some time, check the garden soil and water your plants if necessary. It’s better to water once a week deeply, instead of daily, but only on the surface.
Add another layer of mulch to your beds, either with grass clippings, straw or shredded leaves. Mulch keeps the soil cooler, reduces evaporation and suppresses weeds during hot weather.
Plant new strawberries or blueberries. They have time to settle and grow stable roots so they can produce already in the next season.
Harvest whatever is ready in your garden. August is still a great time to harvest and dry herbs for later use. If you know what else you can do with herbs, read this article on six ways to preserve herbs.
Although August is still quite busy in the garden and kitchen, it also has this air of timelessness and endless days we often remember from our childhood. It’s easy to get lost in thought while picking berries, weeding or just stopping to watch the clouds rolling by and imagining seeing all sorts of things in them. I used to try putting myself back on track whenever I caught myself wool-gathering. Nowadays I just smile and try to grasp that last thought I had before falling out of them and into reality. Sometimes it’s prettier in cloud cuckoo land.
If you feel stressed by all you “must” do, you have my permission to relax. This is the summer we waited for all winter. Grab it and enjoy every minute of it. That doesn’t mean doing nothing, but you could try doing every task intentionally and with all your focus. And if you lose yourself in thoughts while weeding or preparing your vegetables for a cold summer lunch, all the better!
If you’d like to read more about the slower and more reflective side of this season, you may also enjoy my August reflections.
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While August is still warm and often hot, the days have already become noticeably shorter. I notice that, especially in the evenings, when it’s already getting dark by around 10 p.m., if I want to sit outdoors, I have either to accept the dark or light candles and torches.
My vegetable garden seems to produce like mad now, and I’m elbow-deep in harvesting, preserving and maintenance. The gaps that arise when something’s harvested must be closed soon with new seedlings or by sowing fast-growing vegetables. Let’s see what garden tasks August has in store.
August Garden Checklist: Essential Tasks at a Glance
If you only have time for a few things, focus on these essential August garden tasks:
Harvest and preserve regularly
Feed heavy-feeding crops
Sow vegetables for autumn harvest
Water deeply during dry spells
Mulch beds to conserve moisture
Prune and cut back tomatoes
Here’s a quick overview of the most important garden tasks to tackle in August:
Garden task
Best Time in August
Priority
Checking for pests and diseases
Every second day
High
Fertilising
Every 2 – 3 weeks
High
Harvesting
When plants are ripe
High
Preserving harvest
After harvesting
High
Sowing and planting
After gaps form due to harvest
High
Pruning and cutting back tomatoes
When suckers form
Medium
Mulching
When plants are about 10 cm (4 in) high
Medium
Weeding
Twice a week
Medium
Watering
When soil is dry
Medium
Keeping track of all these tasks can be tricky. Download the free August Garden Checklist and take it with you into the garden.
If you’re transitioning from early summer, you might also want to revisit the tasks from July. Many jobs started last month continue now — especially fertilising and mulching. → Continue from last month with my July Garden Tasks checklist.
What to Sow and Plant in August
August is still a good time to sow vegetables directly outdoors to prepare the autumn harvest.
Direct sow outdoors
Good vegetables to sow in August include:
Lamb’s lettuce
Autumn lettuce varieties
Asia salad
Spinach
Radishes
Winter purslane
Broad beans
Green manure
Transplant outdoors
You can also plant cabbage plants like broccoli, kohlrabi and kale, as well as fennel and spring onions.
Now let’s look at the most important August gardening jobs that will keep your vegetable garden productive through late summer:
1. Pruning and cutting tomatoes
✔️ Why it matters: Pruning helps tomatoes form more fruit and stay healthy; cutting off the tips lets the plant direct its energy to fruit building.
Our tomato plants are at their peak now and produce leaves, fruits and shoots like crazy. They seem to have almost endless energy.
As sensible gardeners, however, we know that the colder nights are not far away. When temperatures drop below 15 °C, tomatoes slow down growth considerably, and the same goes for ripening. Not all the fruits they produce now will ripen before temperatures drop.
When we cut off the growing tips now, they redirect their energy to producing larger fruit that can actually ripen in time.
Also, remove diseased leaves near the ground. That way, they won’t get in touch with wet soil, which could lead to blight.
✔️ Why it matters: The one-year-old shoots of summer raspberries must be cut back every year to prevent the spreading of pests and diseases and to induce new growth next season.
August is the perfect time to cut back all one-year-old shoots of raspberries that bear their fruit in summer. Don’t cut raspberries that fruit in autumn or you’ll lose the harvest of this and next year.
Cutting the canes also makes sure to get rid of raspberry maggots that otherwise would now get into the soil where they’d transform into a beetle, which would in turn lay new eggs.
Diseases like spur blight can also be prevented or got rid of by cutting off the shoots of summer raspberries.
I’d always discard the canes in the household bins, never on the compost. If your raspberries were infected by pests or diseases, they’d spread like wildfire.
Leave around 6–8 healthy young canes per metre (or 8–10 per row) for next year’s harvest.
By the way: did you know you can make wonderfully versatile jam with raspberries? In this post I’ve compiled several unusual recipes for raspberry jam.
🌿 Gardener’s Tip: Only cut back summer raspberries
3. Create a New Strawberry Patch
✔️ Why it matters: Strawberries can now root well in a new patch and will produce an abundant harvest next summer.
If you’ve pondered cultivating strawberries in your garden, August is the perfect time to plant them.
Make sure the new bed is weed-free and feed it with mature compost that you roughly rake in. Then plant strawberries at a distance of 25 cm (10 inches) and 50 cm (20 inches) between rows. That way, they’ll get enough sun next season to produce larger, sweet berries. At the same time, leaves can dry off quicker, which makes it harder for mould to develop.
🌿 Gardener’s Tip: When planting strawberries, make sure to keep the crowns at soil level.
4. Water thoughtfully
✔️ Why it matters: All plants need water to survive and thrive.
It can be very hot and dry in August, and some years it’s comparatively cool and moist. Depending on the weather, it can be necessary to water our plants, not only to keep them alive but thriving.
It’s proven to be better when we water once to twice a week thoroughly instead of watering every day just a little bit. That way, the plant’s roots grow deep where they get access to water from even deeper regions. Which, in the end, will help us water less.
If you cultivate vegetables in raised beds or containers, this rule doesn’t apply, though! They can’t grow out of their pots and need regular watering.
Water your raised beds at least every other day and your containers at least once a day. If it’s really hot and dry, even more often.
🌿Gardener’s tip: The best time for watering is in the morning, as the water can soak into the soil before the midday heat. It also helps leaves to dry quickly, reducing the risk of fungal diseases
5. Mulching
✔️ Why it matters: Mulching keeps the soil moist and suppresses weeds
As I’ve been mulching the whole season, my garden beds are pretty well covered by now. We mustn’t forget, though, that all that mulch degrades over time and becomes thinner. For that reason, it’s important to upholster the mulch by adding another layer.
Whenever I scythe around my vegetable garden, for example, I let the grass dry for 1 – 2 days (depending on the heat) and then use it to cover the soil around my plants. Nothing goes to waste; the grass transformed from a nuisance to valuable mulch, and I, the veggies, and the soil organisms are happy 😊. It’s a win-win-win situation.
🌿 Gardener’s Tip: Keep mulch a few centimetres away from plant stems to prevent rot.
6. Weeding
✔️ Why it matters: Weeds compete for nutrients.
I don’t know about your garden, but mine shows a lull regarding weed production in August. Maybe it’s that by constantly weeding since early spring, no weed seeds could germinate or that they finally get it that they’ll never stand a chance against Weed-Inator Me. I usually don’t have as many weeds in August in my garden as in spring.
Nevertheless, check for weeds regularly and either eat them (in this article I describe how to make pesto from wild plants) or make food for your plants( Read here how to make nettle manure.
🌿 Gardener’s Tip: Rip weeds out as soon as they occur.
7. Fertilise with measure
✔️ Why it matters: Heavy feeders need a lot of nutrients to produce an abundant harvest.
Talking of plant food: our heavy-feeders like tomatoes, pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, peppers and cabbages need a healthy dose of fertiliser every 2 – 3 weeks. For medium-feeders, a fertilisation schedule of 3 – 4 weeks is sufficient. By the end of August, however, I’d slow that rhythm down. With too many nutrients, the plants would produce more fruits. Seeing as autumn is already ante portas, even though we can’t see it yet, those fruits wouldn’t ripen before temperatures drop.
Reducing nitrogen fertiliser towards the end of August encourages plants to ripen existing fruits instead of producing excessive leafy growth.
✔️ Why it matters: Vegetables harvested at the right time taste better, stay tender, and encourage plants to remain productive.
August is a very productive month in the vegetable garden. In fact, I can harvest tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, lettuce, and much more almost daily. I know it can be tempting to let ripe fruits hang on the plants and simply enjoy the beautiful sight. After all, that’s what we’ve worked for so long, and people (and we) shall see it. But if you harvest too late, the flavour will become watery or even bitter, the plants get fibrous, too large (hello my zucchini-demons) or turn brown.
Harvesting regularly also induces the plant to grow more fruits, leaves or whatever we cultivate it for.
9. Preserving our harvest
✔️ Why it matters: Preserving makes our harvest last throughout the year
I’m a huge fan of eating as much fresh produce as we can during summer. In August, however, the garden usually produces more than we can eat. So, being the glutton I am, I now preserve all that doesn’t get snacked away by either me or the children.
When we open jars of jam, sauerkraut,pickled zucchini or fermented gherkins in winter, we remember the hot days of August when we picked those very same vegetables and made them last till the next season.
If you want to check your fermentation equipment, here’s a list of what you really need (hint: it’s less than you may think and definitely nothing fancy).
You thought you harvested every bean, but then you detect some of them hidden under some leaves? Don’t worry. Let them hang on the plant until the pod becomes dry and the beans rattle when you shake the pod. Peel them out of the pod, let them dry and store them in a paper bag in a cool and dark place. Congratulations! You’ve successfully grown next year’s harvest!
Harvesting seeds from plants that already grew in your garden not only makes you independent from seed companies but also eventually develops plants that are better adapted to your garden’s microclimate.
11. Sowing and planting
✔️ Why it matters: Sowing and planting in August prepare our autumn and winter harvest.
With all that harvesting, we suddenly have a few gaps in our vegetable garden beds. But if you think August is too late to sow and plant anything, think again. Now is the perfect time to lay the foundation for our autumn and winter harvest. So let’s fill up all the gaps with seeds or seedlings. For a quick overview of what to sow now, check the list above or read this comprehensive list of vegetables we can sow and plant in August in our garden beds.
🌿 Gardener’s Tip: Always close gaps in the beds to keep the soil covered and harvest continually.
Sow broad beans
Broad beans are often sown in early spring, but this year, I’ll try sowing them already in August. They’re said to develop plants of 10 – 20 cm (4 – 8 inches) before the frost strikes, overwinter on the patch and produce a considerably earlier harvest the next season. I haven’t any experience with sowing broad beans in August yet, but stay tuned; I’ll keep you updated.
Sow green manure
If you’ve already sown and planted whatever you wanted for a later harvest but still have gaps or even whole patches lying empty, sowing green manure is a good solution. Not only will it cover the soil and keep it from eroding or leaching out, but it’ll also enrich the soil with nutrients, usually nitrogen. In fact, green manure plants like clover or phacelia, for example, build Rhizobiaceae at their roots, where they store nitrogen. When the plant dies in winter, the nitrogen stays in the soil, attached to the roots and is slowly released when it gets warm again in spring.
Frequently Asked Questions About Gardening in August
What vegetables can I still plant in August?
Many fast-growing vegetables can still be sown in August, including Swiss chard, radishes and rocket salad. August is also ideal for succession sowing to extend harvests into autumn.
Can I still start a vegetable garden in August?
Yes. While spring is the traditional planting season, many fast-growing vegetables such as radishes, Asian greens, spinach and Swiss chard can still be sown in August. You can also plant lamb’s ear and other late lettuce varieties like chicory, winter purslane and radicchio.
Should I keep fertilising tomatoes in August?
Continue feeding while the plants are actively producing fruit, but gradually reduce nitrogen-rich fertilisers towards the end of the month so the plant focuses on ripening existing tomatoes.
Should I prune tomato leaves in August?
Yes, remove yellow or diseased leaves and improve airflow around the plants. Avoid removing too many healthy leaves at once since they still feed developing fruit.
How often should I water my garden in August?
Water deeply whenever the soil becomes dry rather than giving plants small amounts every day. Containers and raised beds usually need watering much more frequently.
Can I plant strawberries in August?
Yes. August is one of the best planting times because the plants establish strong roots before winter and often produce an excellent crop the following year.
Should I remove old vegetable plants after harvest?
Yes. Once crops have finished producing, remove diseased plants promptly and compost healthy material. Replant the space with autumn vegetables or green manure whenever possible.
Common August Gardening Mistakes
Mistakes can happen, even when you’re an experienced gardener. To help you prevent them, I’ve listed the most common mistakes:
1. Watering little and often
Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow roots, making plants less drought-tolerant.
2. Forgetting to harvest regularly
Overripe beans, cucumbers and zucchini slow further production.
3. Leaving empty beds bare
Bare soil quickly dries out, and weeds move in.
Always sow another crop or green manure.
4. Continuing heavy fertilising into autumn
Too much nitrogen late in the season encourages leafy growth instead of ripening fruit.
5. Ignoring pests because the season is nearly over
Aphids, powdery mildew, tomato blight and cabbage pests remain active well into late summer.
6. Forgetting to preserve surplus harvest
August abundance disappears surprisingly quickly.
Freeze, ferment, dry or preserve fruits and vegetables while they’re at their peak.
7. Letting weeds go to seed
One neglected week in August can mean thousands of weed seeds for next year.
🌿 August Gardening Checklist: Quick Summary
Focus on:
– Watering, mulching and fertilising actively growing plants
– Harvesting and preserving what’s in season
– Closing gaps in the beds by sowing and planting autumn veggies
Why Gardening in August Matters
Gardening in August is essentially based on three pillars:
Harvesting and preserving what’s ready now
Tending for what needs a bit more time
Setting the foundation for our autumn and winter harvest.
Sometimes it may feel like doing a mad dance between watering, checking for pests, harvesting loadfuls of fresh fruit and preserving them at night in the kitchen. All while it’s still hot outside, but already sensing autumn around the corner.
August is a month of abundance. Learn which garden tasks to prioritise now—from harvesting and preserving to sowing autumn vegetables—so your garden stays productive well into the next season.
It’s busy for us gardeners now, I won’t deny it. But it’s also very rewarding. Not only can we eat fresh produce for every meal if we like, but we can also watch our pantry stock up. Every jar of jam, pickle or ferment, every package of frozen vegetables, every dried bunch of herbs provides for our and our families‘ well-being while at the same time linking us to all those generations before us who did exactly the same.
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I was just visiting my garden and checking on the veggies. When I looked after my pumpkins, I realised that some of them are already bearing fruit, while others only show male flowers but no pumpkins.
If your pumpkin plant has plenty of flowers but still isn’t producing pumpkins, there are several possible reasons. In this article, we’ll look at one of the most common: plants that produce only male flowers. I’ll explain why it happens and what you can do about it.
Normally, male flowers develop earlier so that their pollen is ready for pollination as soon as the female flowers open.
Sometimes, though, a pumpkin plant keeps producing only male flowers and no female flowers. Without female flowers, there can be no pumpkins. In this article, I’ll explain why that happens and what you can do about it.
Why do some pumpkins have only male flowers?
Pumpkin plants produce both male and female flowers.
You can distinguish them by the characteristic ovary under the female flowers that looks like a mini pumpkin. In the middle of the flower, there’s a so-called stigma which looks a bit like a small crater.
Male flowers, on the other hand, grow just on a long stem (no mini fruit here). Inside the flower are several pollen-covered stamens. It’s normal for a pumpkin plant to produce more male than female flowers. What’s not normal is when a pumpkin plant does not produce any female flowers at all. There are several reasons for that phenomenon:
Don’t panic – Male flowers develop first
Young pumpkin plants naturally begin by producing male flowers. In fact, 2 – 3 weeks before the first female flowers show, there are already male flowers on the plant, so they’re ready to pollinate the first female flowers when they open.
So don’t panic when your plant has just started to show flowers. As long as the plant is growing vigorously and looks healthy, patience is often all that’s needed.
Variety
Some vigorous pumpkin varieties produce lots of male flowers before switching. If you’ve chosen one of those varieties, you may want to wait another few weeks.
Too little nutrition
When a pumpkin doesn’t show any female flowers, the plant could have a nutrient deficiency. When the soil hasn’t had many nutrients to begin with or just doesn’t have the right kind of nutrients, a pumpkin plant can’t produce female flowers.
Too much nitrogen
On the other hand, too much fertilisation—especially with nitrogen—can also prevent pumpkins from producing female flowers. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth instead of flowering and fruit production.
Wrong place
Pumpkins originally come from warm regions, and they still love the sun. When planning your vegetable garden, choose a place where they get at least 6 – 8 hours of sunlight. In a shady spot, therefore, they don’t grow well.
Wrong watering
When pumpkins aren’t watered properly while they’re in bloom, the harvest will suffer.
In normal weather, pumpkins usually benefit from one deep watering each week. During hot, dry spells, they may need watering every day. Very cold water straight from the hose can stress the plants, especially during hot weather. If possible, let the water warm up a little first. In fact, it’s best to store the water during the day in an outdoor container so that it adopts the temperature of its surroundings.
Another point we must observe when watering pumpkins is to avoid spraying the part of the stem that grows out from the soil. When this root stem becomes wet, the plant can rot.
Temperature
Although pumpkins are sun-lovers, they suffer from very high temperatures. Heat waves with temperatures above about 32 °C (92 °F) can delay the production of female flowers.
Too little distance between plants
Truth be told, I’ve been guilty of that. In May, when we can finally transplant our pumpkins into the garden beds, it’s tempting to ignore the recommended distance between plants of about one metre (3 feet). The pumpkin plants are still relatively small, and although I know they’ll become immense, I pretend I couldn’t imagine it and “use the space better”.
Plants that grow too tightly together get less light and compete for nutrients. And as we’ve learned earlier in that article: no nutrients, no female flowers.
Too many leaves and shoots
When the plant produces too many leaves and shoots, that’s often a symptom of too much nitrogen. The plant goes full into “green mode”, growing leaves and shoots like mad and then doesn’t have any energy left for building flowers and fruits.
How to Help Your Pumpkin Produce Female Flowers
Let me show you what we can do if our pumpkins only show male flowers:
Fertilise correctly
Pumpkins are heavy feeders and must be fed enough nutrients.
About a week before transplanting, add compost to the patch where you want to grow the pumpkins. When I finally plant the pumpkins, I usually put some well-rotted, moist manure into the planting hole. That way, the plant has enough nutrients and moisture to grow well at the beginning.
When the plant has produced its first 4 – 5 real leaves, we must fertilise it for the first time. For heavy feeders like pumpkins, tomatoes or cucumbers, I mostly use my homemade nettle manure, but horn shavings are equally good.
During the growing season, from mid-summer until August, I fertilise my pumpkins every 2 weeks, alternating between the nitrogen-rich nettle manure and some phosphorus-containing fertiliser for fruit-building.
The right location
As we learned before, pumpkins are sun-lovers and need a place with at least 6 – 8 hours of sunlight per day. They can grow in the shade, but not well, and they’ll definitely produce fewer and smaller fruits there – if any at all.
The best place to grow pumpkins is a sunny bed near a compost heap where they get enough nutrients, light and water.
Watering correctly
It’s essential for the development of healthy pumpkin plants that they get enough water on a regular basis. Usually, it’s enough to water them once a week, but thoroughly so that the soil is well soaked.
During dry and hot summers, however, it may be necessary to water them daily.
Let the water warm up before, at best, by storing it in a rainwater barrel or another container during the day so that it can adopt the temperature of its surroundings.
The best times to water plants are the mornings and evenings. Just make sure to water where the roots grow (avoiding watering the root stem) and not hit the leaves.
Sufficient planting distance
Make sure to keep enough distance between pumpkin plants (remember, they’ll get massive!).
When they compete for nutrients and water, they can’t grow optimally, and they don’t get enough light and sunshine.
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Pollinate pumpkins by hand 🎃
Once female flowers show, you can pollinate them by hand. Hand pollination should be carried out in the morning on the day when a female flower opens.
Choose a male flower for pollination and check by brushing with a finger over the stamen and look if you’ve got pollen on it. If so, remove the petals so that the style is exposed.
Carefully hold back the female flower’s petals and brush the pollen-covered stamens of the male flower against the stigma in the centre of the female flower.
Hand pollination is a good method to make sure that a pumpkin plant produces fruit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I remove male pumpkin flowers?
No. Leave them where they are, because they’re necessary for pollination.
Are pumpkin flowers edible?
All pumpkin flowers are edible, except those of ornamental pumpkins. They can be filled with ricotta and baked in a pan and have a slightly nut-like flavour.
How long do pumpkin flowers stay open?
Every pumpkin flower opens only for one day. If the female flower isn’t pollinated during that day, it withers and falls off.
How do I know if a pumpkin flower is pollinated?
The only way to be sure is by pollinating the female flower by hand.
Why do my baby pumpkins turn yellow and fall off?
That’s usually due to incomplete pollination. The pumpkins that turn yellow are just the ovaries at the bottom of the flower. When they have not been pollinated, they will fall off.
How many pumpkins grow on one plant?
A pumpkin plant can produce between one and 10 pumpkins, with small varieties up to 15.
Where can I learn more about cultivating pumpkins?
This is a good reminder that even experienced gardeners sometimes need to play detective. Remember when I told you at the beginning that two of my pumpkin plants showed only male flowers?
Rather than assuming something is wrong with the plant itself, it’s often worth looking around it. In my case, I suspect the neighbouring kohlrabi are shading the pumpkins more than I’d realised.
The plants I’m referring to grow under the corn in a three-sister bed. (For those of you who don’t know: this is a combination of corn, pumpkin and beans; read more about it in this guide on companion planting.)
However, south of them, blocking the sun, still grow some soon-to-be-harvested kohlrabi. I think the problem the pumpkins have is too little sunlight. As I’m going to pick the kohlrabi anytime soon, I’m optimistic that the pumpkins will enjoy the newfound sunlight and celebrate by producing lots of female flowers.
I’m so looking forward to my pumpkin harvest this autumn—and I hope you’ll be harvesting plenty of pumpkins, too. If you’re wondering what to do with them all, here’s my favourite sweet-and-sour pumpkin recipe.
Looking for more practical gardening tips? Browse my Gardening Hub, where you’ll find step-by-step guides, seasonal advice and tried-and-tested solutions to help your garden thrive.
Raspberries are my favourite berries! I honestly could eat them all year-round. Although different varieties guarantee a harvest over several months, there comes a time when the last fresh berry has been devoured. That’s usually the time when I’m grateful to my summer self that it managed to keep back enough raspberries to make jam. While traditional raspberry jam is really wonderful in itself, I like to experiment with flavours, and I’m happy to show you my favourite raspberry jam variations.
Here are five of my favourite flavour combinations, from timeless vanilla to indulgent white chocolate and pistachios.
Note: Before you start, sterilise your jars and lids properly to prevent your jam from spoiling. In this guide, you can see how it’s done.
Raspberry Vanilla Jam
This is a classic variation, yet a very satisfying one. The vanilla adds smoothness and velvety richness and takes the edge off the raspberries’ acidity.
It goes exceptionally well on toast and makes for a wonderful breakfast treat.
Raspberry Jam with Vanilla
A smooth flavour combination of sweet raspberries and the soft, velvety fragrance of fresh vanilla.
Sterilise the jars and lids and let them cool down.
Put the raspberries, sugar and pectin or the preserving sugar in a pot and stir them gently so that everything is evenly mixed.
Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes. During that time, the raspberries release a bit of juice.
Blend the fruit-sugar mix.
Cut the half vanilla pod open lengthwise and scrape the pulp out. Add this and the pod to the fruit mix into the pot.
Bring the mixture to a rolling boil and let it boil for 4 minutes.
Check if the jam is ready by putting a dollop of it onto a cold plate. If the jam thickens and leaves a trace when you wipe through with a finger, it's ready to be put in jars.
Fill the raspberry-vanilla jam in jars and close them immediately with the lids.
Put the jars upside down on a dishcloth for about 10 minutes. Then, flip them back and let them cool down completely.
Notes
Raspberry Vanilla Jam can be stored for up to one year in a cool and dark place (e.g. the basement). Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge and consume it within two weeks.
Raspberry Lavender Jam
Lavender and raspberry are not only in the same colour range but also pair really well in flavour. The lavender’s distinct floral note complements the raspberries’ natural acidity.
One note, though: stick to the amount of lavender I indicated in the recipe. Lavender tends to develop a stronger flavour over time, and when you use more initially, it could taste soapy after a while.
Raspberry lavender jam with its extravagant, floral flavour, is a sophisticated addition to a fine tea party. It matches well with scones, shortbread or stirred in yoghurt.
Raspberry Lavender Jam
A deliciously floral and fruity jam in a more extravagant twist on classic raspberry jam. The lavender adds an elegant note to the raspberries. Use it sparingly.
Sterilise the jars and lids and let them cool down.
Put the raspberries together with the preserving sugar or the sugar and pectin in a pot and mix it all together.
Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes until the raspberries release a bit of juice.
Blend the fruit mix with a stick blender.
Add the fresh or dry lavender flowers and bring the mixture to a rolling boil.
Let it boil for 4 minutes.
Check if the jam's ready by pouring a dollop of it on a cool plate. When you tilt the plate, the jam shouldn't run off.
When the jam's ready, pour it into the jars and seal them tightly with their lids.
Put the jars upside down on a dishcloth for about 10 minutes. Then, flip them upwards again and let them cool down.
Notes
Raspberry Lavender Jam can be stored for up to one year in a cool and dark place (e.g. the basement). Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge and consume it within two weeks.
Raspberry Jam with Thyme and Basil
If you’ve never added herbs to jam before, this combination might surprise you. The earthy note of the thyme and the smooth, balsamic flavour of basil make a wonderful contrast to the natural raspberry flavour.
Raspberry jam with thyme and basil is not only a delicious spread on your morning toast, but also a great addition to a cheese board.
Raspberry Jam with Thyme and Basil
Fresh thyme and basil lend this raspberry jam an unexpectedly delicious herbal flavour. The result is a sophisticated jam that pairs just as well with cheese as it does with breakfast toast.
Sterilise the jars and lids and let them cool down.
Put the raspberries and the preserving sugar or the sugar and pectin into a pot and mix it all well.
Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes until the raspberries release a bit of juice.
Blend the fruits with a stick blender.
Add the thyme leaves and bring it all to a rolling boil.
Let it boil for about 4 minutes.
To check if the jam is ready, pour a dollop of it onto a cool plate. When you tilt the plate, it shouldn't be runny but gooey to solid.
When the jam is ready, pour it into the jars and close them tightly with the lids.
Put the jars upside down on a dishcloth for about 10 minutes.
Flip them back up again and let them cool down.
Notes
Raspberry jam with thyme and basil can be stored in a cool and dark place (e.g. basement) for up to one year. Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge and consume it within two weeks.
Raspberry Jam with Lemon and Lemon Balm
Now, this raspberry jam variation doesn’t attempt to smooth over the raspberries’ slight acidity. On the contrary, it aims to underline it by adding a different kind of acidic fruit, the lemon. To round it off, we add a few leaves of lemon balm, which add a natural freshness and, well, balmyness.
Raspberry jam with lemon and lemon balm tastes wonderful in yoghurt and as an extravagant ingredient in dressings for leaf salads.
Raspberry Jam with Lemon and Lemon Balm
Bright lemon juice and fresh lemon balm give this jam a wonderfully refreshing flavour. It's light, vibrant, and perfect for anyone who enjoys a hint of citrus.
Sterilise the jars and lids and let them cool down.
Put the raspberries and the preserving sugar or the sugar and pectin into a pot and mix it all well.
Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes until the raspberries release a bit of juice.
Blend it all with a stick blender.
Add the juice and zest of lemon and bring the mixture to a rolling boil.
Let it boil for about 4 minutes.
Check if the jam is ready by dropping a dollop of it onto a cool plate. When you tilt the plate, the jam should not be runny, but gooey or solid.
When the jam is ready, pour it into the jars and close them tightly with the lids.
Put the jars upside down on a dishcloth and leave them for about 10 minutes.
Flip the jars back again and let them cool down.
Notes
Raspberry jam with lemon and lemon balm can be stored in a cool and dark place (e.g. the basement) for up to one year. Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge and consume it within two weeks.
Raspberry Jam with White Chocolate and Pistachios
Looking for something a little more luxurious? This raspberry jam is my boys’ (and their girlfriends’) favourite variation. It’s deliciously rich with the white chocolate chunks that, if added right before filling the jar, are still visible in the jam. Coarsely chopped pistachios increase the luxurious feel. In fact, raspberry jam with white chocolate and pistachios on a scone, for example, makes almost a cake. 😊
This creamy raspberry jam with white chocolate and pistachios not only transforms simple bread into an indulgent treat; it can also be used as one, for example, as a cake filling.
Raspberry Jam with White Chocolate and Pistachios
Creamy white chocolate and crunchy pistachios transform raspberry jam into an indulgent treat. Rich, fruity, and slightly nutty, it's a wonderful choice for desserts, pastries, or a special breakfast.
Put the raspberries and the preserving sugar or sugar and pectin into a pot and stir it all well.
Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes until the raspberries release a bit of their juice.
Blend it all with a stick blender.
Add the roughly chopped pistachios and bring the mixture to a rolling boil.
Let it boil for about 4 minutes.
Check if the jam is ready by dropping a dollop of it on a cool plate. When you tilt the plate, the jam should be viscous or solid.
Now add the roughly chopped white chocolate and swiftly stir it into the jam. The chunks should not melt down completely.
When the jam is ready, fill it into the jars and close them tightly with the lids.
Put the jars upside down on a dishcloth and leave them like that for about 10 minutes.
Flip the jars back and let them cool down.
Notes
Raspberry jam with white chocolate and pistachios can be stored in a cool and dark place (e.g. a basement) for up to one year. Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge and consume it within two weeks.
Which Raspberry Jam Variation Should You Try First?
Not sure which recipe to try first? Here’s a quick overview:
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use frozen raspberries to make jam?
Yes. Frozen raspberries work just as well as fresh ones and don’t even need to be thawed first. Simply add them to the pot and allow a little extra time for them to release their juice before bringing the mixture to a boil.
Can I reduce the amount of sugar?
Not if you want to preserve the jam safely for long-term storage. The sugar-to-fruit ratio is important for proper setting and preservation. If you prefer a less sweet jam, choose a preserving sugar designed for lower sugar recipes rather than simply reducing the amount.
Do I have to strain out the raspberry seeds?
No, but you certainly can if you prefer a smoother jam. Simply press the cooked raspberries through a fine sieve before adding the flavouring ingredients and finishing the recipe.
Which raspberry jam variation is best for gifts?
The white chocolate and pistachio variation makes a particularly luxurious homemade gift, while the lavender version looks elegant and is perfect for afternoon tea lovers. Decorate the jars with a pretty label and a ribbon for a thoughtful seasonal present.
Can I double the recipe?
Yes, although I generally prefer making two separate batches. Smaller batches reach the setting point more reliably and preserve the fresh raspberry flavour better.
Which flavour should I try first?
If you’re making flavoured raspberry jam for the first time, start with vanilla. It’s a gentle variation that complements the berries without changing their classic flavour too much. Once you’ve tried that, branch out into lavender, herbs, or white chocolate.
Raspberries – The Rubies of Summer
Raspberries are the epitome of endless summers, walking barefoot into the garden and snacking on warm berries fresh from the bush. I know how much self-restraint it can cost, but try not to eat them all up. It’s so worth preserving them as jam for the cold winter months. And as for variations: the ones I showed you today are only the beginning. Get creative with flavours and try adding different herbs, homemade syrups, nuts or other berries to your raspberry jam.
I’ll keep adding new flavour combinations whenever I discover one worth sharing. Stay curious and, until the next time, enjoy!
If making raspberry jam is one of your favourite July traditions, you might enjoy my July Reflections, where I celebrate everything this generous month has to offer in the garden and beyond.
Fermented Garlic in honey is a very beginner-friendly ferment that requires only two ingredients.
I always have some jars of fermented garlic in honey in the house, usually in different stages of fermentation.
First, because it’s incredibly delicious and wonderfully versatile: The longer the garlic ferments, the milder it becomes, while absorbing the honey’s sweetness until the cloves are delicious enough to snack on straight from the jar.
Another reason I always keep a jar on hand is that many people value garlic-infused honey during the cold and flu season.
My main reason for making this ferment, however, is that it tastes marvellous and is very easy to make.
Quick Overview
Prep time
15 minutes
Fermentation time
At least 3 months
Difficulty
Easy
Best for
Beginners
Storage
At least 1 year
Flavour
Garlicy-sweet
I guess by now, you wonder what honey-fermented garlic tastes like, don’t you? Let me tell you:
How does fermented garlic in honey taste?
We all know that garlic alone has a sharp and sometimes even biting flavour. When it’s fermented in honey, its flavour mellows over time, and it becomes sweeter over time due to the honey. Even people who normally find raw garlic too strong often enjoy the mellow fermented cloves.
Meanwhile, the honey becomes beautifully infused with garlic, more “spicy” and complex in flavour.
Convinced? Then let’s dive in.
Fermented Garlic in Honey
As promised, you only need a few things:
Equipment
To make fermented garlic, you only need a bowl to soak the cloves, a spoon to scrape out the honey and one large, clean jar with a lid, either twist-off or flip-top.
If you’re just getting started, have a look at my guide to fermentation equipment. It explains which jars and accessories are actually useful and which ones you can safely skip.
Ingredients
To make fermented garlic in honey, you just need
5 – 6 bulbs of garlic
about 500 g of raw honey (enough that all cloves are well-covered)
It’s best, of course, to use garlic you cultivated yourself in the garden. If you want to learn more about it, read my complete garlic growing guide here. It’s not necessary to use it freshly harvested; you can make the ferment later in the year, when you’re not up to your ears in preserving. Make sure, though, that the cloves haven’t dried up or started sprouting.
It doesn’t matter if you take liquid or crystallised honey. The garlic naturally releases moisture, which quickly turns even crystallised honey liquid again. It’s important, though, that you use raw honey. Raw honey works best because it contains naturally occurring yeasts and other microorganisms.
Instructions
Step 1: Peel the garlic
Remove the outer skin from the garlic bulbs and separate the cloves.
Some people say that the cloves can be easily peeled when you put them in a bowl, cover it with a second bowl and shake them vigorously.
That method never worked for me, though.
Instead, I put the cloves in a bowl and pour hot (not boiling!) water over them. Then I let them sit for about three minutes. Afterwards, the peels remove fairly easily.
Step 2: Fill the jar
Put the peeled cloves in a jar and keep in mind that you need enough room left for the honey.
Every ferment needs some headspace because the ferment can become bubbly and occasionally overflow. This is particularly important for honey ferments. Honey ferments can become surprisingly active during the first weeks and often foam considerably. That means it’ll most likely need about 1.5 – 2 inches of space between the surface of the honey and the rim of the jar.
Step 3: Pour the honey
Now, pour the honey into the jar. This is easier when the honey is liquid, but you can, of course, also use crystallised honey, as long as it’s raw.
No matter which sort you use, gently stir the garlic through the honey until every clove is completely coated.
Step 4: Close the jar loosely
Loosely tighten the twist-off lid or close the flip-top lid. Within a few days, pressure begins to build as fermentation produces gases and pushes the honey upwards. A loosely closed lid or a flip-top jar allows the fermentation gases to escape while limiting the amount of fresh air entering the jar.
If the lid is closed too tightly, however, gases are trapped inside, and the pressure will build up, which could even lead to the jar exploding.
Due to the pressure building during fermentation, honey may leak out of the jar. That’s normal. Just wipe it off with a damp cloth. To prevent your kitchen surface (or wherever you put your jar) from becoming sticky, put the jar into a tray or a small bowl. That way, overflowing honey can be cleaned off more easily.
Step 5: Turn the jar daily
Garlic cloves are lighter than honey and tend to float on the surface, and even above it. Although they’ve been covered in honey at the beginning, over time, the honey drips away, and the cloves could mould.
To prevent that, we turn the jar upside down at least once a day. Flip it over and wait until the garlic cloves rise to the surface. Then flip it back again.
Unlike garlic stored in oil, garlic fermented in honey undergoes active fermentation. As long as the cloves remain completely submerged and the ferment develops normally, the environment becomes increasingly inhospitable to spoilage organisms.
Sometimes, honey may leak from the lid. That’s totally normal, just wipe it off.
Step 6: Let it ferment
Put the jar in a warm place of about 20 °C (68 °F). I usually keep it on the windowsill or the kitchen counter.
Within a few days, the first bubbles will show, and sometimes the honey will become a bubbling volcano! The warmer the temperature, the faster and more active the fermentation process.
In the course of fermentation, the honey will become liquid or – if you’ve used liquid honey already – thinner. That’s normal, as the water from the garlic cloves will diffuse into the honey.
After about 2 – 4 weeks, the initial fermentation is over, and you can put the jar in a cooler place. Not necessarily the fridge, we still want it to mature, but maybe a cool basement. You can, of course, use the garlic now already, but I seldom touch it before it has matured for at least 6 months. Fermented garlic in honey improves greatly with age. Like wine or cheese, it gets better the longer you let it sit.
Separate the cloves and peel them. This is easiest, when you soak them for about 3 minutes in hot (not boiling!) water.
Put the peeled garlic cloves in the jar.
Pour the honey over the garlic cloves and stir until all the cloves are completely covered with honey.
Secure the lid onto the jar, but - in case of a twist-off lid - not too tightly. That way, the gases that will form during fermentation, can leak out.
Put the jar in a tray or bowl and set it at room temperature ( about 20 °C / 68 °F).
Turn the jar upside down at least once a day and wait until the garlic cloves resurface. Then, turn it back and let the microbes do their work.
Let the garlic ferment for 2 - 4 weeks (depending on the room temperature). Afterwards, put the jar in a cool basement. Let it mature for at least 3 months, better 6 months.
Notes
You can store fermented garlic in honey in a cool place for years. Although my prediction is, it won't last that long. So delicious...
In honey ferments, yeasts usually play the main role. Lactic acid bacteria may also contribute, but alcoholic fermentation is generally the dominant process. There are naturally a few lactic acid bacteria in honey, but it’s mostly the yeasts that do the work here.
Honey has a natural water content of about 17 %. When we increase that to at least 19 %, the wild yeasts in the honey become active and start fermenting. The bubbles are one of the clearest signs that fermentation is underway, as is the fact that the honey becomes more liquid and sometimes even runny.
In this recipe, it’s the garlic juice that diffuses over time and naturally increases the honey’s water content just enough to produce a very small amount of alcohol.
The amount of alcohol produced is extremely small—far below that of alcoholic beverages. Fermented garlic in honey is generally considered safe to consume, including by children and during pregnancy. If you avoid alcohol completely for personal, religious or medical reasons, however, it’s always best to consult a healthcare professional before consuming fermented foods.
How Do You Know It’s Ready?
At first, bubbles form, usually after a few days, which shows that fermentation has started. Then, the honey will become thinner due to the garlic’s liquid.
After 2 – 4 weeks, the bubbles will die down. Now it’s time to put the jar in a cooler environment. You could eat the cloves now, OR you wait for another few months to let them mature.
Over time, the garlic cloves turn slightly translucent, and the honey becomes darker. The garlic’s aroma mellows, while the honey’s flavour becomes more complex and tastes sweet and garlicky.
I usually let the garlic ferment in honey for at least three, better six months before I use it to flavour my dishes.
How to Use Fermented Garlic in Honey
To be honest, I often snack on the cloves like sweets (not on a date night, though). But there are more ways to use fermented garlic in honey:
Try making a sweet-and-savoury bruschetta by adding garlic slices to tomatoes on bread and drizzling a bit of the honey over it.
When I feel a cold coming up, I take 1 – 2 tablespoons of the honey in a glass of warm water. The water mustn’t be hot, as natural enzymes and many of its beneficial properties are best preserved when the honey isn’t heated.
Furthermore, you can marinate meat in a mixture of this fermented honey, minced garlic and miso paste or soy sauce.
Use the garlic in hot and sweet curries or as a condiment in meatballs.
I sometimes the honey and finely chopped garlic cloves to add a sweet note to salads and bowls. Just mix it into your normal dressing.
Try roasted vegetables with fermented garlic. It’s so good, you’ll lick the plate!
Drizzle it over pizza or stir it into sauces: there’s almost no end to the use of fermented garlic in honey!
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How to store fermented garlic in honey?
Here’s the good news: unlike lactic-acid ferments, honey ferments needn’t be stored in the fridge. A cool, dark cupboard or a cool basement is enough.
If you don’t have either, room temperature is equally fine. Just make sure that the jar isn’t exposed to too much light.
Fermented garlic in honey can last for years, but its flavour will change over time. In fact, I have a jar of three-year-old fermented garlic. The cloves are of a very dark brown, almost black, and they simply taste heavenly!
Tips for Success
When you observe the following few aspects, your fermented garlic in honey must become a success!
Always use clean jars
Keep the garlic covered with honey
Don’t panic if the honey becomes runny
Bubbles are good
Don’t use wet utensils
Common Problems
Here’s a quick overview of the most common occurrences with honey-fermented garlic and what (if anything) to do about them:
No. Fermentation in honey only works with fresh ingredients that diffuse their liquid into the honey.
Does the honey stay sweet?
Yes, but it also absorbs the garlic’s flavour.
Can I refrigerate it?
Yes. Refrigeration slows fermentation considerably. Most people simply store it in a cool cupboard or basement instead, so it can continue maturing.
How long does honey-fermented garlic keep?
At least one year. My experience shows that honey-fermented garlic can be stored much longer, though.
Can I reuse the honey?
Yes, there are several uses for garlic-infused honey (see above).
Can I add chilli or herbs?
Absolutely. Chillis will add a spicier note, while the herbs complement the garlic flavour.
Two ingredients + Patience = Foodie’s heaven
Garlic fermented in honey is one of the easiest ferments you’ll ever come across. It only requires two ingredients and a bit of patience. With that, you’ll create something so flavourful and versatile that I guarantee you won’t have to think about long-term storage 😄.
If you’ve tried it already, why not experiment by adding chillies, peppercorns or ginger to the mix? And herbs like rosemary, thyme or basil? There’s so much more to explore.
So let’s get out, pick some garlic and start fermenting. Your winter self will thank you for it.
Eager for more fermentation recipes? I’ve got you covered:
